Ralley Center Caps - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

chevyman1970 · 07-30-2002, 01:45 AM

HAS ANYONE PUT RALLEY WHEELS ON THEIR TRUCK? I HAVE A SET OF RALLEY WHEELS WITH THE CAPS AND THE BLACK CAPS THAT HOLD THE CAPS IN PLACE. THE PROBLEM I AM HAVING IS THAT I CAN'T FIND LUG NUTS THAT WILL HOLD THE CAPS IN PLACE.

Billy Porter · 07-30-2002, 08:29 AM

I think the thread are different....... I did not have much luck either...went to the old style

**BIG ORANGE** · 07-30-2002, 08:52 AM

Turn the caps over to the back side and remove 3 of the tabs to make them line up with 3 of the bolt holes that the factory cap would mount to and take a self taping screw and run through the backside of the rim and then buy reg.chrome lug nuts and it looks and works great I do it everytime I put ralleys on a truck. Let us know how it turned out.

cheyenne10 · 07-30-2002, 10:04 AM

Big Orange;

Do you have any photos of what your talking about, I'm confused!!

chevyman1970 · 07-30-2002, 07:10 PM

BIG ORANGE, SO DO YOU MEAN TO BOLT THE CENTER CAPS THRU THE BACK SIDE OF THE RIM? I KNOW THE ORIGINAL ONES USE A 14.5MM THREAD AND EXTERIOR THREAD LUG NUTS, BUT I DON'T THINK THOSE WILL NOT FIT ON THE 1/2 INCH STUDS.

**BIG ORANGE** · 07-30-2002, 10:07 PM

OK there's 3 holes that holed the cap on, just use the self tappan screws through the backside of rim the screws tightn to the cap making there on threads.Then just use a reg. chrome lug nuts. Does that help any?

Als454 · 07-30-2002, 11:41 PM

Chevyman,
I put 97 ralley rims on my 69 frame (1 ton dually). I had to replaced all the wheel studs. Really look nice, I think. It wasn't that hard to do.

**STP67-72** · 07-30-2002, 11:59 PM

I am not for sure who makes them,but i heard it was the same people that made the metric style for GM. I have bought several sets of 1/2 right hand, which is 71 and up. I have also bought 7/16 and 9/16 rh's. Which are for 70 and older six luggers and a 72 c-20.

chevyman1970 · 07-31-2002, 01:31 AM

ALS454 DID THE STUDS FIT OKEY. OR DID YOU HAVE TO USE DIFERENT DRUM OR ROTORS?

Als454 · 07-31-2002, 09:16 AM

Chevyman:
I used the original wheel hubs. I had drums on all four wheels, she's a dually. Once I removed the original studs I had to drill the holes to accept the larger metric studs (I think they are 14mm, bought them at NAPA). I spent a few bucks on a good drill bit. Drilling the holes was a breeze. Hammered in the new studs and mounted the wheels. I bought the rims, rings, center caps and lug nuts as a set, I came up two lug nuts short (they have the external thread used to hold on the center cap) but was able to get them at NAPA also.

cheyenne10 · 07-31-2002, 10:01 AM

Big Orange;

Yes the 2nd description helped. I assume the self-tappers need to be a specific length so not to protrude through front of wheel and cut my hand when washing wheels.

chevyman1970 · 07-31-2002, 02:08 PM

thanks fellas for your suggestions

**MikeB** · 07-31-2002, 04:17 PM

I have the 73-87 15x8 5-lug ralley wheels. My center caps have the black circle with a gold bowtie emblem, and are from the early 90s trucks. I did what Big Orage recommends, except I left the extra plastic bosses in place for "spares." Over the years, the threads eventually strip out of the plastic. I just found a set of 4 new caps for $25 at a swap meet. Dealer list is >$50 each! I'm thinking about a better way to tap threads into them -- like maybe using small heli-coils. OK, I'm anal.

**MikeB** · 07-31-2002, 05:45 PM

Here are some pics.

**MikeB** · 07-31-2002, 05:46 PM

The rear of the cap. You can see the five plastic bosses. You'll have to drill holes into three of them and run self-tapping screws through the back of the wheel into the three holes.

gregsplace · 07-31-2002, 07:17 PM

Call 316-371-1007(Mt. Hope Ks) This guy sells new factory take-offs. I bought a set of 3/4ton Ralleys from him that came off of a '94 and I put them on our '87. He ordered me a set off lug nuts (the kind that are double threaded like the factory metric ones that receive the plastic lug nuts that hold on the center cap) to fit on our '87's 9/16 studs. He should be able to order 1/2" ones also.
His name is Rex Johnson at A-1 Truck

**MikeB** · 07-31-2002, 09:39 PM

Yep. Aluminum heads will dissipate the heat more. Also, some of the old compression ratio rules are going out the window with the new high-turbulence head designs, like AFR, Dart, and GM Vortec.

chevyman1970 · 08-01-2002, 02:21 AM

thanks guys

**BIG ORANGE** · 08-01-2002, 07:42 AM

Them 5 bosses your speaking of have inserts that will pop right out you dont have to drill nothing,then use a #14 3/4 screw thats what I always use,just trying to make it easy.

07-30-2002, 08:29 AM	#2
Billy Porter Registered User Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Petersburg, Virginia Posts: 178	I think the thread are different....... I did not have much luck either...went to the old style __________________ 71 GMC Stepside 250/350 Turbo better known as "Fred Sanford 77 240 Mercedes Benz 92 300E Mercedes Benz 70 Firebird 400 85 600 Ninja

07-30-2002, 08:52 AM	#3
BIG ORANGE Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lancaster S.C. Posts: 4,747	how to mount caps Turn the caps over to the back side and remove 3 of the tabs to make them line up with 3 of the bolt holes that the factory cap would mount to and take a self taping screw and run through the backside of the rim and then buy reg.chrome lug nuts and it looks and works great I do it everytime I put ralleys on a truck. Let us know how it turned out. __________________ Things happen for a reason!

07-30-2002, 10:04 AM	#4
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,511	Big Orange; Do you have any photos of what your talking about, I'm confused!! __________________ Bob

07-30-2002, 10:07 PM	#6
BIG ORANGE Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lancaster S.C. Posts: 4,747	OK there's 3 holes that holed the cap on, just use the self tappan screws through the backside of rim the screws tightn to the cap making there on threads.Then just use a reg. chrome lug nuts. Does that help any? __________________ Things happen for a reason!

07-30-2002, 11:41 PM	#7
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	Chevyman, I put 97 ralley rims on my 69 frame (1 ton dually). I had to replaced all the wheel studs. Really look nice, I think. It wasn't that hard to do. __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

07-30-2002, 01:45 AM	#1
chevyman1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SAN PEDRO CALIFORNIA Posts: 62	Ralley Center Caps HAS ANYONE PUT RALLEY WHEELS ON THEIR TRUCK? I HAVE A SET OF RALLEY WHEELS WITH THE CAPS AND THE BLACK CAPS THAT HOLD THE CAPS IN PLACE. THE PROBLEM I AM HAVING IS THAT I CAN'T FIND LUG NUTS THAT WILL HOLD THE CAPS IN PLACE.

07-30-2002, 07:10 PM	#5
chevyman1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SAN PEDRO CALIFORNIA Posts: 62	BIG ORANGE, SO DO YOU MEAN TO BOLT THE CENTER CAPS THRU THE BACK SIDE OF THE RIM? I KNOW THE ORIGINAL ONES USE A 14.5MM THREAD AND EXTERIOR THREAD LUG NUTS, BUT I DON'T THINK THOSE WILL NOT FIT ON THE 1/2 INCH STUDS.

07-30-2002, 11:59 PM	#8
STP67-72 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: PORT NECHES, TEXAS / USA Posts: 1,664	lug nuts I am not for sure who makes them,but i heard it was the same people that made the metric style for GM. I have bought several sets of 1/2 right hand, which is 71 and up. I have also bought 7/16 and 9/16 rh's. Which are for 70 and older six luggers and a 72 c-20.

07-31-2002, 01:31 AM	#9
chevyman1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SAN PEDRO CALIFORNIA Posts: 62	ALS454 DID THE STUDS FIT OKEY. OR DID YOU HAVE TO USE DIFERENT DRUM OR ROTORS?

07-31-2002, 09:16 AM	#10
Als454 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Vienna, Ohio, USA Posts: 259	Chevyman: I used the original wheel hubs. I had drums on all four wheels, she's a dually. Once I removed the original studs I had to drill the holes to accept the larger metric studs (I think they are 14mm, bought them at NAPA). I spent a few bucks on a good drill bit. Drilling the holes was a breeze. Hammered in the new studs and mounted the wheels. I bought the rims, rings, center caps and lug nuts as a set, I came up two lug nuts short (they have the external thread used to hold on the center cap) but was able to get them at NAPA also. __________________ 72 Chevy A/C P/B P/S Tilt 454 Engine 400 TCI Trans C30 Frame C10 Suspension Short Wheel Base (Dually)

07-31-2002, 10:01 AM	#11
cheyenne10 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 2,511	Big Orange; Yes the 2nd description helped. I assume the self-tappers need to be a specific length so not to protrude through front of wheel and cut my hand when washing wheels. __________________ Bob

07-31-2002, 02:08 PM	#12
chevyman1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SAN PEDRO CALIFORNIA Posts: 62	thanks fellas for your suggestions

07-31-2002, 04:17 PM	#13
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,457	I have the 73-87 15x8 5-lug ralley wheels. My center caps have the black circle with a gold bowtie emblem, and are from the early 90s trucks. I did what Big Orage recommends, except I left the extra plastic bosses in place for "spares." Over the years, the threads eventually strip out of the plastic. I just found a set of 4 new caps for $25 at a swap meet. Dealer list is >$50 each! I'm thinking about a better way to tap threads into them -- like maybe using small heli-coils. OK, I'm anal. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 07-31-2002 at 05:49 PM.

07-31-2002, 05:45 PM	#14
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,457	Here are some pics. Attached Images __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

07-31-2002, 05:46 PM	#15
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,457	The rear of the cap. You can see the five plastic bosses. You'll have to drill holes into three of them and run self-tapping screws through the back of the wheel into the three holes. Attached Images __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then! Last edited by MikeB; 07-31-2002 at 05:49 PM.



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07-31-2002, 07:17 PM	#16
gregsplace Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Colwich,Kansas Posts: 713	Call 316-371-1007(Mt. Hope Ks) This guy sells new factory take-offs. I bought a set of 3/4ton Ralleys from him that came off of a '94 and I put them on our '87. He ordered me a set off lug nuts (the kind that are double threaded like the factory metric ones that receive the plastic lug nuts that hold on the center cap) to fit on our '87's 9/16 studs. He should be able to order 1/2" ones also. His name is Rex Johnson at A-1 Truck __________________ 67 3/4 4x4 402,a/t,flat bed 98 GMC Sierra swb daily driver 87 burb parting out. 68 1/2 chevy, 350/350, 71 gmc frame, kid's beater 69 1ton 396-4sp, dump 69 swb stepside 396/400th current frameup 67 swb 454/400th rebuilding now, oldest boy just rolled it 99,HD, Road King Classic Colwich Ks

07-31-2002, 09:39 PM	#17
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,457	Yep. Aluminum heads will dissipate the heat more. Also, some of the old compression ratio rules are going out the window with the new high-turbulence head designs, like AFR, Dart, and GM Vortec. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

08-01-2002, 02:21 AM	#18
chevyman1970 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: SAN PEDRO CALIFORNIA Posts: 62	thanks guys

08-01-2002, 07:42 AM	#19
BIG ORANGE Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lancaster S.C. Posts: 4,747	mounting cap Them 5 bosses your speaking of have inserts that will pop right out you dont have to drill nothing,then use a #14 3/4 screw thats what I always use,just trying to make it easy. __________________ Things happen for a reason!

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