rear coils - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

AK70SWB · 07-30-2002, 10:33 PM

is it possible to lower your truck by cutting rear coils? if so how it looks to me like there tapered on both ends.
thanks for the help
andy

Big69C20 Toy · 07-30-2002, 10:41 PM

only thing i know about cutting springs is it's not a good idea. it's a cheap last resort, by heating them up you mess with their spring constant and hence how they ride/bear loads etc. I

If you must go the cheap route i'd say heat the springs as the taper on them would be tuff to deal with. just heat the spring up good and hot then have somebody stand and jump on the rear until it's as low as you want. be warned though, it's not all together the safest route

**STP67-72** · 07-31-2002, 12:03 AM

I would use a pair of blocks before i would cut springs.

paintpyro · 07-31-2002, 12:26 PM

Rear coils are bent in at the ends to lock into the spring pockets, if you cut your rear springs, you cant safely use the stock mounts

**1971Stepside** · 07-31-2002, 12:36 PM

I have a set of blocks I will sell. Let me know if interested.

**BIG ORANGE** · 07-31-2002, 12:56 PM

Go to AUTO ZONE and by aset of 2 in blocks for about 22.00 buck with the ubolt and put them in,I've done several truck for guys around here that couldnt afford the lowered springs, you could take out 1 round in the bottom of your front spring and this would give you a 2in drop,be sure to get the frontend setup again.

Low69CST · 07-31-2002, 01:27 PM

I have heard of people cutting the rear coils, but I can't think its good idea unless you do alot of work making a spring bucket for the trailing arms. The tapered ends have caps that hold them to the trailing arm, if you cut them off, then thats a slight problem. I would go with blocks in the rear. Also, a full round of coils sounds like a hole freakin bunch. I cut 1/4th of a round out of my front springs and made a lot of difference, didn't measure the exact amount though.

SWINGSAX68 · 07-31-2002, 01:35 PM

Just what I wanted to know!!!SO I can buy those drop blocks at Auto Zone???How about O'Reilly's???? They come with instructions??? Give me an idea as to how they work....Would 31 inch tires be too big for a 2 inch drop up front? Would I need to get any special type of shocks???

stllookn · 07-31-2002, 01:35 PM

I cut 1 round out of my front springs and my '67 C10 dropped about 2.375 inches. It rides stiff but other than that there is no problem. This is not a daily driver! If I had a daily driver or a truck that I wanted to cruise long distances I would go for the drop spindles and aftermarket springs...don't forget the shocks too if you drop it a bunch.

AK70SWB · 07-31-2002, 10:15 PM

thanks everyone
i forgot a bout blocks until i looked under my truck, i just assumed you could only use them on leaf type springs, duh. anyway i'll give the blocks and 1 loop out of the coils a try
thanks again
andy

Suicide-D · 08-01-2002, 12:12 AM

the previous owner did that to my truck and it definately destroyed the ride and control. I will do it correctly when I start the body off in a few months. I gotta get the 68 stopping first...but whatever you do don't heat them...

ChevLoRay · 08-01-2002, 07:25 AM

I know that youthful enthusiasm is contagious, but honestly, why do we do some of the things we do? Cutting coils will make them shorter, lowering the vehicle. Heating them takes the temper out of the steel, making them weaker (they're already old and weaker than they were) and this lets them sag. How sure are you that you'll have the truck sitting level when you get through cutting or heating the springs?

You're going to have to do at least as much work as swapping the coils for new ones (same labor, plus the cutting or heating). Why not save up and buy a set of correctly sized springs and do the job right the FIRST time? Also, if you drop the truck as much as 4 inches, you're rear axle is not going to be centered between the frame rails. Your shocks are not going to work properly because their angle will be changed and will be more extreme. Go lower than 4 inches and the changes are even more drastic.

It's your truck and you can do what you want with it. It just pains me to see that things that are done with a plan that is less-than-perfect and creates a poor-handling monster that gets driven on the public streets and creates a hazard for all the rest who have to dodge them. I'm not saying yours will be hazardous. But, you've seen 'em....they bounce and sway and bottom-out, they drag the frame on speed bumps and curbs and generally get in the way at the worst time. I just hope you have better results than those people did. Good Luck.

slam33 · 08-01-2002, 10:13 AM

You can not cut the rears becuse you will not have a way to remount them. They have a special winding at both ends that work with the mounts. Heating them will give you short spongy coils that will bottom all the time. just get a set of lowered coils or blocks.

07-30-2002, 10:33 PM	#1
AK70SWB Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SPRINGFIELD MO. Posts: 126	rear coils is it possible to lower your truck by cutting rear coils? if so how it looks to me like there tapered on both ends. thanks for the help andy __________________ the sun even shines on a dogs a$$ some days!!!

07-30-2002, 10:41 PM	#2
Big69C20 Toy Livin' it up. Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Richland, MI Posts: 2,212	only thing i know about cutting springs is it's not a good idea. it's a cheap last resort, by heating them up you mess with their spring constant and hence how they ride/bear loads etc. I If you must go the cheap route i'd say heat the springs as the taper on them would be tuff to deal with. just heat the spring up good and hot then have somebody stand and jump on the rear until it's as low as you want. be warned though, it's not all together the safest route __________________ -Greg; Sold the 69 C20. It's off to a better home with more love! Now onto the 86 CUCV M1009; K5 blazer with 6.2L diesel, corp 10 bolt axles, Detroit locker in the rear, trutrac front, 3.73 gears, 35" tires.

07-31-2002, 12:26 PM	#4
paintpyro Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Santa Fe Springs, CA,USA Posts: 1,579	Rear coils are bent in at the ends to lock into the spring pockets, if you cut your rear springs, you cant safely use the stock mounts __________________ 70 shortbed stepside "Schleprock" 350 w/TH400 rallys and BFGs -We can rebuild it, we have the technology-lower,shinier,faster

07-31-2002, 12:36 PM	#5
1971Stepside Almost Satisfied Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Springfield, MO Posts: 2,932	I have a set of blocks I will sell. Let me know if interested. __________________ 1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far."

07-31-2002, 12:56 PM	#6
BIG ORANGE Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Lancaster S.C. Posts: 4,747	Dont cut the rear Go to AUTO ZONE and by aset of 2 in blocks for about 22.00 buck with the ubolt and put them in,I've done several truck for guys around here that couldnt afford the lowered springs, you could take out 1 round in the bottom of your front spring and this would give you a 2in drop,be sure to get the frontend setup again. __________________ Things happen for a reason!

07-31-2002, 12:03 AM	#3
STP67-72 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: PORT NECHES, TEXAS / USA Posts: 1,664	I would use a pair of blocks before i would cut springs.

07-31-2002, 01:27 PM	#7
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	I have heard of people cutting the rear coils, but I can't think its good idea unless you do alot of work making a spring bucket for the trailing arms. The tapered ends have caps that hold them to the trailing arm, if you cut them off, then thats a slight problem. I would go with blocks in the rear. Also, a full round of coils sounds like a hole freakin bunch. I cut 1/4th of a round out of my front springs and made a lot of difference, didn't measure the exact amount though. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

07-31-2002, 01:35 PM	#8
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	... Just what I wanted to know!!!SO I can buy those drop blocks at Auto Zone???How about O'Reilly's???? They come with instructions??? Give me an idea as to how they work....Would 31 inch tires be too big for a 2 inch drop up front? Would I need to get any special type of shocks??? __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788 Last edited by SWINGSAX68; 07-31-2002 at 01:38 PM.

07-31-2002, 01:35 PM	#9
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	I cut 1 round out of my front springs and my '67 C10 dropped about 2.375 inches. It rides stiff but other than that there is no problem. This is not a daily driver! If I had a daily driver or a truck that I wanted to cruise long distances I would go for the drop spindles and aftermarket springs...don't forget the shocks too if you drop it a bunch. __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

07-31-2002, 10:15 PM	#10
AK70SWB Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: SPRINGFIELD MO. Posts: 126	thanks everyone i forgot a bout blocks until i looked under my truck, i just assumed you could only use them on leaf type springs, duh. anyway i'll give the blocks and 1 loop out of the coils a try thanks again andy __________________ the sun even shines on a dogs a$$ some days!!!

08-01-2002, 12:12 AM	#11
Suicide-D Registered User Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Katy, TX...but the love of my life resides in Dublin,OH. Posts: 1,408	don't heat them!!!! the previous owner did that to my truck and it definately destroyed the ride and control. I will do it correctly when I start the body off in a few months. I gotta get the 68 stopping first...but whatever you do don't heat them...

08-01-2002, 07:25 AM	#12
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	I know that youthful enthusiasm is contagious, but honestly, why do we do some of the things we do? Cutting coils will make them shorter, lowering the vehicle. Heating them takes the temper out of the steel, making them weaker (they're already old and weaker than they were) and this lets them sag. How sure are you that you'll have the truck sitting level when you get through cutting or heating the springs? You're going to have to do at least as much work as swapping the coils for new ones (same labor, plus the cutting or heating). Why not save up and buy a set of correctly sized springs and do the job right the FIRST time? Also, if you drop the truck as much as 4 inches, you're rear axle is not going to be centered between the frame rails. Your shocks are not going to work properly because their angle will be changed and will be more extreme. Go lower than 4 inches and the changes are even more drastic. It's your truck and you can do what you want with it. It just pains me to see that things that are done with a plan that is less-than-perfect and creates a poor-handling monster that gets driven on the public streets and creates a hazard for all the rest who have to dodge them. I'm not saying yours will be hazardous. But, you've seen 'em....they bounce and sway and bottom-out, they drag the frame on speed bumps and curbs and generally get in the way at the worst time. I just hope you have better results than those people did. Good Luck. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

08-01-2002, 10:13 AM	#13
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	You can not cut the rears becuse you will not have a way to remount them. They have a special winding at both ends that work with the mounts. Heating them will give you short spongy coils that will bottom all the time. just get a set of lowered coils or blocks. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>



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