How the heck........ - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

qksilver · 04-05-2007, 09:39 PM

stripped down a 3/4 truck and having problems. The ended up cutting the u bolts hold the rear to the trailing arms.
How can I get the the rest of the u bolts out, all 4 of them, and get the bolts out holding the coil springs to the trailing arms.
The arms and spring are in great shape and I don't want to damage them. I have soaked them repeatily, hammer on them, even used a press and they won't budge.
Thanks,
Steve

GREASEMONKEY72 · 04-05-2007, 09:42 PM

break, drill, grind them out/off?

just a thought

bryanw1968 · 04-05-2007, 09:42 PM

Dude,
I feel your pain. The bolts that go through the trailing arm get siezed in there big time. I tried everything to get mine out. The only thing that worked for me was to heat them up and dump cold water on them. I mean heat them up until they're red hot. I did that twice, and then it made this really pissed off sound and they almost fell right out.

GREASEMONKEY72 · 04-05-2007, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bryanw1968

Dude,
I feel your pain. The bolts that go through the trailing arm get siezed in there big time. I tried everything to get mine out. The only thing that worked for me was to heat them up and dump cold water on them. I mean heat them up until they're red hot. I did that twice, and then it made this really pissed off sound and they almost fell right out.

didnt think of that

dave2953 · 04-05-2007, 10:01 PM

I used a cutting wheel on my grinder. I cut the u-bolt just above the trailing arm on either side of the axle. When I removed the trailing arm from the truck I knocked them through with a hammer. The threads on mine were trashed so I had no other option.

qksilver · 04-05-2007, 10:10 PM

I got them off the axle, it is the left over bolts seized in the trailing arms. i wasn't sure if heating the trailing arms around the bolts will work. I will give that a try, then drill.......either way it looks like it won't be easy..........

TONE · 04-05-2007, 10:24 PM

Yes, mine were awful too. Just heat up the trailing arms right around the hole. Heat from both sides and don't heat the bolt, you'll expand it making things worse. The heat will burn the rust right out of there. Then a hammer, a punch, and a little encouragement and they'll see things your way.

bryanw1968 · 04-05-2007, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TONE

Yes, mine were awful too. Just heat up the trailing arms right around the hole. Heat from both sides and don't heat the bolt, you'll expand it making things worse. The heat will burn the rust right out of there. Then a hammer, a punch, and a little encouragement and they'll see things your way.

I actually heated the bolt to expand it and then quickly poured beer not water to cool it off. I didn't want to waste it but it was handy

72armyswbtruck · 04-05-2007, 10:53 PM

YOU ALL WILL THINK THAT I AM CRAZY BUT TRY THIS
Take a long candle, light it, then melt the wax into the threads that you want to get loose. Then try and get them loose.
If this doesn't work then get a porta torch (butane torch) heat them up and try again.

brak · 04-05-2007, 11:02 PM

I personally keep a "nut splitter" in my toolbox, as it has saved me many a time.

I Can't comment on this exact application, because i've yet to remove my trailing arms, but theoretically it could be utilized.

bryanw1968 · 04-05-2007, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brak

I personally keep a "nut splitter" in my toolbox, as it has saved me many a time.

I Can't comment on this exact application, because i've yet to remove my trailing arms, but theoretically it could be utilized.

Would that thing be able to make it all the way through the trailer arm though?? It's like 4-5 inches deep.

qksilver · 04-06-2007, 12:07 AM

The nuts came off really easy.......lulling me into thinking the rest would be easy, I tried a 10 ton press but it started to bend the arms

Solver · 04-06-2007, 12:20 AM

If the bolts are that rusty you are going to want to clear out all the rust down inside there anway. Most of the time I just air chisel the rivets loose from the trailing arm sides and split them in 2. Easier to clean out all the rust that way and then just bolt the 2 halves back together.

GMCPerson · 04-10-2007, 08:49 AM

I bought a cheap 3/4 drive socket set and used a 4 foot long cheater to get the nuts off. Then I used all of the different brands of penetrating oil that I had and soaked the bolts for over a month. Finally with a big hammer and punch, I got the bolts out. After about a week, I was able to move them about 1/2 inch and I thought I was home free. They ended up moving about 1/2 inch a week. Good Luck!

**Hart_Rod** · 04-10-2007, 10:15 AM

Put the nuts back on the bolts and tighten them down with an impact, maybe that will bust them loose.

Bamm · 04-10-2007, 10:29 AM

I used an air chisel to try to "knock" the nuts that hold the spring pad on and it tried to separate my trailing arms. It just kinda "pushed" the bolt between the arm channels and started to push the channels apart. I recommend the torch.............Jerry

04-05-2007, 09:39 PM	#1
qksilver Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Pines NC Posts: 3,853	How the heck........ stripped down a 3/4 truck and having problems. The ended up cutting the u bolts hold the rear to the trailing arms. How can I get the the rest of the u bolts out, all 4 of them, and get the bolts out holding the coil springs to the trailing arms. The arms and spring are in great shape and I don't want to damage them. I have soaked them repeatily, hammer on them, even used a press and they won't budge. Thanks, Steve

04-05-2007, 09:42 PM	#2
GREASEMONKEY72 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Bakersfield,CA Posts: 7,893	Re: How the heck........ break, drill, grind them out/off? just a thought __________________ -steven Alte Seele S.S. "Allison" '72 C/10 LWB 350SB/TH350 - DD PITBULL IS NOT A CRIME

04-05-2007, 09:42 PM	#3
bryanw1968 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Leander, Texas Posts: 850	Re: How the heck........ Dude, I feel your pain. The bolts that go through the trailing arm get siezed in there big time. I tried everything to get mine out. The only thing that worked for me was to heat them up and dump cold water on them. I mean heat them up until they're red hot. I did that twice, and then it made this really pissed off sound and they almost fell right out.

04-05-2007, 10:01 PM	#5
dave2953 Dave's not here, man Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Winder, Georgia Posts: 2,000	Re: How the heck........ I used a cutting wheel on my grinder. I cut the u-bolt just above the trailing arm on either side of the axle. When I removed the trailing arm from the truck I knocked them through with a hammer. The threads on mine were trashed so I had no other option. __________________ - 2014 VW Jetta - 2015 VW Jetta - 1966 Ford F-250

04-05-2007, 10:10 PM	#6
qksilver Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Pines NC Posts: 3,853	Re: How the heck........ I got them off the axle, it is the left over bolts seized in the trailing arms. i wasn't sure if heating the trailing arms around the bolts will work. I will give that a try, then drill.......either way it looks like it won't be easy..........

04-05-2007, 10:24 PM	#7
TONE Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: IOWA Posts: 58	Re: How the heck........ Yes, mine were awful too. Just heat up the trailing arms right around the hole. Heat from both sides and don't heat the bolt, you'll expand it making things worse. The heat will burn the rust right out of there. Then a hammer, a punch, and a little encouragement and they'll see things your way. __________________ 67 C 20 BOWTIE (IN PROGRESS) - 1972 350 ENGINE - MUNCIE SM 420 - 4.56 GEARS

04-05-2007, 10:53 PM	#9
72armyswbtruck Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Idaho Posts: 4,034	Re: How the heck........ YOU ALL WILL THINK THAT I AM CRAZY BUT TRY THIS Take a long candle, light it, then melt the wax into the threads that you want to get loose. Then try and get them loose. If this doesn't work then get a porta torch (butane torch) heat them up and try again. __________________ "Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!"

04-05-2007, 11:02 PM	#10
brak Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: MinneSNOWta Posts: 1,381	Re: How the heck........ I personally keep a "nut splitter" in my toolbox, as it has saved me many a time. I Can't comment on this exact application, because i've yet to remove my trailing arms, but theoretically it could be utilized. __________________ 2003 GMC Sierra 1500 WT 1995 Nissan Hardbody 2016 Hyundai Veloster Turbo DC2 (SW/AW) Clyde W. Harvey USN "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery" Winston Churchill

04-06-2007, 12:07 AM	#12
qksilver Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Southern Pines NC Posts: 3,853	Re: How the heck........ The nuts came off really easy.......lulling me into thinking the rest would be easy, I tried a 10 ton press but it started to bend the arms

04-06-2007, 12:20 AM	#13
Solver Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Storm Lake, Ia Posts: 1,449	Re: How the heck........ If the bolts are that rusty you are going to want to clear out all the rust down inside there anway. Most of the time I just air chisel the rivets loose from the trailing arm sides and split them in 2. Easier to clean out all the rust that way and then just bolt the 2 halves back together. __________________ 1972 Cheyenne Super 20 LWB-Blue 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Black 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-Red 1972 Cheyenne Super 10 LWB-green 1972 GMC 4x4 LWB-White 1971 Cheyenne 10 LWB-Ochre 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Copper 1971 Cheyenne 20 Longhorn-Black 1969 Custom 10 LWB-lt blue 1968 GMC 3/4 ton-green 1968 1/2 ton swb stepside-silver 1967 Chevrolet CST 10 LWB-green 1967 Chevrolet custom 20 LWB-Maroon

04-10-2007, 08:49 AM	#14
GMCPerson Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Milford, MI Posts: 192	Re: How the heck........ I bought a cheap 3/4 drive socket set and used a 4 foot long cheater to get the nuts off. Then I used all of the different brands of penetrating oil that I had and soaked the bolts for over a month. Finally with a big hammer and punch, I got the bolts out. After about a week, I was able to move them about 1/2 inch and I thought I was home free. They ended up moving about 1/2 inch a week. Good Luck!

04-10-2007, 10:15 AM	#15
Hart_Rod ************* Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 17,835	Re: How the heck........ Put the nuts back on the bolts and tighten them down with an impact, maybe that will bust them loose. __________________ Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3

04-10-2007, 10:29 AM	#16
Bamm Cowboy Fan for Life!!!!!! Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Amelia, Virginia Posts: 2,921	Re: How the heck........ I used an air chisel to try to "knock" the nuts that hold the spring pad on and it tried to separate my trailing arms. It just kinda "pushed" the bolt between the arm channels and started to push the channels apart. I recommend the torch.............Jerry __________________ 1967 ShortBed Fleetside 3/4 Drop 350/700R4 Tilt wheel 18 x 8 Torque Thrust II's Future mods: All new gauges & wood bed My Zip is 23002 I ship UPS, USPS



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