How do you adjust a power steering box? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Scrub · 04-24-2003, 12:46 AM

The last time I did it, the dang thing locked up on me. I drove like 500 feet to my buddies place and he had a fit, said I had it too tight and was lucky it didn't break.

So, what's the secret sauce?

Thanks in advance.

Scrub · 04-24-2003, 10:57 AM

TTT
Gotta do it, someone must know how

Thanks

knucklebuster · 04-24-2003, 09:34 PM

The only one I've adjusted was on a racecar but it might help.Loosen the nut thats on the top(works like a locknut)and turn the screw in or out.

Longhorn Man · 04-24-2003, 11:43 PM

have an assistand in the cab lightly turning the wheel back and forth as you turn the screw in.
This is a temp fix and you should probably start looking for a new box.

Scrub · 04-25-2003, 01:34 AM

Thanks,
I talked to a bunch of people today and the conclusion was that the box is probably toast. If it is loose to where it needs adjustment then get a new one.

I am going to look into an AGR box as they aren't much more and a they are "More Better"

stllookn · 04-25-2003, 01:46 AM

Scrub, The nut adjusts the gear lash in the center where it gets most of the wear. If it is worn and you adjust the lash out of it in the center...the first time you turn to the stops (where there is less wear) it can bind and lock in place. This makes for some very exciting adventures when turning into your buddies driveway and can't correct the turn...LOL!

casey · 04-25-2003, 02:05 AM

so why the adjustment nut and screw, if your not suppose to adjust it, this that just the factorys way of adjusting it?

*Shane* · 04-25-2003, 10:20 AM

The screw and lock nut are there to adjust the "back lash" in the worm gear and the recirculating balls. Back Lash is an old machinist term that refers to the lack of movement when a ballscrew system goes from moving one direction and then starts moving the opposite direction. For instance, lets say you turn your steering wheel full lock to the right ... you pause ... then start turning the steering wheel back to the left ... there will be a small amount of "slack" from the time you start turning the steering wheel and when the front tires ACTUALLY start to move ... this small space of no movement of the tires is called Back Lash. The adjustment is there ONLY for the ballscrew and the balls.

In a steering system, there will be additionaly "slack" when you take into consideration the pitman arm, tie rod ends, the a-arm bushings, and the ball joints. Even when brand new, these items will have some toleranced "slack" built in.

I agree with the above posts that state that it's time to look for a new box. If you have traced the "slack" back to the steering box, chances are the ballscrew is worn and adjusting really won't help.

Just my thoughts ...

Scrub · 04-25-2003, 11:10 AM

So...
We've got a loose screw that has too much backlash to push my balls around correctly?

Hmmm...
Is that a sports comentary on Dennis Rodman or a statement of my mental condition!

Casey, It seems the general opinion is the adjusting screw is a one time thing at the factory.

The new stabilizer seemed to fix most of the problem. I'm thinking about a double stabilizer with the new box.

Thanks for all,

casey · 04-25-2003, 06:04 PM

more questions, when a steering box gets rebuilt, what are they rebuilding inside there, I've never had one apart, I just thought there was 2 gears in there like a crown and pinion, what are these recurculating balls and ball screw??????

04-24-2003, 12:46 AM	#1
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	How do you adjust a power steering box? The last time I did it, the dang thing locked up on me. I drove like 500 feet to my buddies place and he had a fit, said I had it too tight and was lucky it didn't break. So, what's the secret sauce? Thanks in advance. __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

04-24-2003, 10:57 AM	#2
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	TTT Gotta do it, someone must know how Thanks __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

04-24-2003, 09:34 PM	#3
knucklebuster Failure is NOT an option! Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: greenwood s.c. Posts: 811	The only one I've adjusted was on a racecar but it might help.Loosen the nut thats on the top(works like a locknut)and turn the screw in or out. __________________ House payment or truck parts?????.........why does life have to be so complicated? 1969 Chevy Shortbed Fleetside 1969 Camaro ps pb a/c(drove in high school now it's just a yard ornament,but it's next on the list for resto) 1990 Ni$$an hardbody( daily beater that has been really beaten!) 1999 Grand Am GT(wifes ride...never buy a pontiac!!Trust Me)

04-25-2003, 01:34 AM	#5
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	Thanks, I talked to a bunch of people today and the conclusion was that the box is probably toast. If it is loose to where it needs adjustment then get a new one. I am going to look into an AGR box as they aren't much more and a they are "More Better" __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

04-25-2003, 01:46 AM	#6
stllookn Saving 1 truck at a time! Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Kent, WA Posts: 6,465	Scrub, The nut adjusts the gear lash in the center where it gets most of the wear. If it is worn and you adjust the lash out of it in the center...the first time you turn to the stops (where there is less wear) it can bind and lock in place. This makes for some very exciting adventures when turning into your buddies driveway and can't correct the turn...LOL! __________________ '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)

04-24-2003, 11:43 PM	#4
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	have an assistand in the cab lightly turning the wheel back and forth as you turn the screw in. This is a temp fix and you should probably start looking for a new box.

04-25-2003, 02:05 AM	#7
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	so why the adjustment nut and screw, if your not suppose to adjust it, this that just the factorys way of adjusting it?

04-25-2003, 10:20 AM	#8
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	The screw and lock nut are there to adjust the "back lash" in the worm gear and the recirculating balls. Back Lash is an old machinist term that refers to the lack of movement when a ballscrew system goes from moving one direction and then starts moving the opposite direction. For instance, lets say you turn your steering wheel full lock to the right ... you pause ... then start turning the steering wheel back to the left ... there will be a small amount of "slack" from the time you start turning the steering wheel and when the front tires ACTUALLY start to move ... this small space of no movement of the tires is called Back Lash. The adjustment is there ONLY for the ballscrew and the balls. In a steering system, there will be additionaly "slack" when you take into consideration the pitman arm, tie rod ends, the a-arm bushings, and the ball joints. Even when brand new, these items will have some toleranced "slack" built in. I agree with the above posts that state that it's time to look for a new box. If you have traced the "slack" back to the steering box, chances are the ballscrew is worn and adjusting really won't help. Just my thoughts ...

04-25-2003, 11:10 AM	#9
Scrub Collector of rusty Items Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Sisters,Oregon USA Posts: 731	So... We've got a loose screw that has too much backlash to push my balls around correctly? Hmmm... Is that a sports comentary on Dennis Rodman or a statement of my mental condition! Casey, It seems the general opinion is the adjusting screw is a one time thing at the factory. The new stabilizer seemed to fix most of the problem. I'm thinking about a double stabilizer with the new box. Thanks for all, __________________ Scrub Sisters, Oregon - Home of the Sisters Rodeo. 70 GMC 1,000,000 + miles 72 K-20 project, 456 Dana60 front, Corp14 rear w/locker, 265R19.5 tires 20-ply. Warn 12k winches both ends, Cross-over steering with raised tie-rod, Powerbox steering, 4500 watt 120-AC power, Air, Hydraulic aux power, 4 inch lift, 5000 lb air-bags both ends.

04-25-2003, 06:04 PM	#10
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	more questions, when a steering box gets rebuilt, what are they rebuilding inside there, I've never had one apart, I just thought there was 2 gears in there like a crown and pinion, what are these recurculating balls and ball screw??????



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