Finally got the 72' Bagged....have some questions! - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

PrimeredThunder · 07-01-2003, 03:29 AM

Ok so I finished mounting all my bags and brackets today on my 72' Short-Fleet. I must say, this truck sits a lot lower than I expected but its damn nice and I can't wait to get it finished

I ended up using AirRide Technologies front and rear brackets and Firestone 2500's in front and 2600's in back. I dont have drop spindles or a notch at this time, maybe in the future. Now when it comes to plumbing my system is where my questions come;
*As for valves I think I'm going to run 6 SMC 3/8 valves and do a 3 way system that would control the front bags individually and the rear bags together.
*I have an air tank already thats either a 5 or 6 gallon and I'm going to run a Viair 450c Compressor.

Heres my questions...

*How hard is it to mount/plumb/wire all the valves and compressor? Is it pretty straight forward or do you have to be an electrician to get it right?
*Where should I mount my valves and such?
*I plan on re-using my stock Track-bar and cutting it and welding it to the right length. How long does it need to be correct?

All help is appreciated and I will have pictures of my progress tomorrow!

Thanks,

Kenny

72addict · 07-01-2003, 04:38 AM

I think the heavy bags go in the front.

71-longbed · 07-01-2003, 04:45 AM

i kinda wanna come over and check out your progress and see how low it sits ..... :p

SCOTI · 07-01-2003, 08:43 AM

I run my bags w/o electric valves so I can't answer your first question. The valve solenoids & wiring can be mounted anywhere under the truck, just try & keep them out of direct water spray (a shield here is a good idea). For track bar length, you need to determine your ride height (the height you get it aligned @), then center the rear end housing w/the frame @ that height & measure the length needed for the track bar. I would cut the bar, slip a sleeve over one end, weld it back together, grind down the welds, center the sleeve over the welded area & weld the ends of the sleeve to the bar (no worries about strength).

Slammed67 · 07-01-2003, 09:54 AM

Yep, the bigger bags go up front. I've got (4) 3-way solenoids mounted behind my seat in the cab (which gives me 4-way control). I mounted them behind the seat to keep them away from heat and the elements. Also with them behind the seat, I can easily access them and it reduces the amount of wire needed. Some people say to mount the valves as close to the bags as possible for the fastest system, but unless you're planning on hopping the thing it won't make a noticable difference.

It's not too difficult to plumb and wire the system. Just have a game plan in your head before you start. Mount all your components, then run all the wiring and air line. You'll need a relay and a pressure switch to kick on the compressor (but I assume those came with your air bag kit).

NSANE68!!! · 07-01-2003, 10:55 AM

All good stuff, but 3 way system bad. You will get bag roll in the rear and it will handle like $hit. Spend the extra $100 and get another valve setup, or run check valves and they will probably run ya $40 so you might as well BUST for the 4th valve set.
Like slammed said the rest is straight forward, but I am one that likes the valve as close to bag as possible

XXL · 07-01-2003, 10:58 AM

Panhard bar length isn't specific, only that it be as long as possible. The purpose of the bar is to center the rearend, and because the rear suspension travels up and down, the bar must travel on an arc to do this centering job. As a result of it traveling on an arc, it is actually "un-centering" the rearend all the time. The longer the Panhard bar, the less impact on this centering issue.

Kenneth

Glen · 07-01-2003, 10:16 PM

The smc type valves require a slight amount of back pressure to maintain your pressure in the bag so make sure you use check valves, I run them just before the solenoid, this way if you loose tank pressure or are working on the system the bags will retain their pressure, otherwise the bag will deflate when the tank pressure is lost.
also try to use the brass filters on the exhaust of the smc valve and they will close correctly after letting off the switch. I also run a small brass ball valve on the exhaust side so the car does not fall too fast especially on the front valves, if your running larg valves it will fall fast.

07-01-2003, 03:29 AM	#1
PrimeredThunder Back from the Dead Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Salem, Oregon Posts: 522	Finally got the 72' on bags....have some questions! Ok so I finished mounting all my bags and brackets today on my 72' Short-Fleet. I must say, this truck sits a lot lower than I expected but its damn nice and I can't wait to get it finished I ended up using AirRide Technologies front and rear brackets and Firestone 2500's in front and 2600's in back. I dont have drop spindles or a notch at this time, maybe in the future. Now when it comes to plumbing my system is where my questions come; As for valves I think I'm going to run 6 SMC 3/8 valves and do a 3 way system that would control the front bags individually and the rear bags together. I have an air tank already thats either a 5 or 6 gallon and I'm going to run a Viair 450c Compressor. Heres my questions... How hard is it to mount/plumb/wire all the valves and compressor? Is it pretty straight forward or do you have to be an electrician to get it right? Where should I mount my valves and such? I plan on re-using my stock Track-bar and cutting it and welding it to the right length. How long does it need to be correct? All help is appreciated and I will have pictures of my progress tomorrow! Thanks, Kenny __________________ The only Carb that matters to me is the one under my hood! Salem, Oregon Last edited by PrimeredThunder; 07-01-2003 at 04:16 AM.*

07-01-2003, 04:38 AM	#2
72addict Registered User Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Mason MI, 48854 (strikezone of the mitten) Posts: 894	I think the heavy bags go in the front. __________________ 1957 Cameo

07-01-2003, 04:45 AM	#3
71-longbed Its Magically Delicious Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: oregon Posts: 2,398	i kinda wanna come over and check out your progress and see how low it sits ..... :p __________________ 71 C10 LWB 350sbc -TH350 12 bolt 3.42 Posi Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew. My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend. Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold. Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee.

07-01-2003, 08:43 AM	#4
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 21,924	I run my bags w/o electric valves so I can't answer your first question. The valve solenoids & wiring can be mounted anywhere under the truck, just try & keep them out of direct water spray (a shield here is a good idea). For track bar length, you need to determine your ride height (the height you get it aligned @), then center the rear end housing w/the frame @ that height & measure the length needed for the track bar. I would cut the bar, slip a sleeve over one end, weld it back together, grind down the welds, center the sleeve over the welded area & weld the ends of the sleeve to the bar (no worries about strength). __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

07-01-2003, 09:54 AM	#5
Slammed67 Progress = 0% Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Kansas City, MO Posts: 2,108	Yep, the bigger bags go up front. I've got (4) 3-way solenoids mounted behind my seat in the cab (which gives me 4-way control). I mounted them behind the seat to keep them away from heat and the elements. Also with them behind the seat, I can easily access them and it reduces the amount of wire needed. Some people say to mount the valves as close to the bags as possible for the fastest system, but unless you're planning on hopping the thing it won't make a noticable difference. It's not too difficult to plumb and wire the system. Just have a game plan in your head before you start. Mount all your components, then run all the wiring and air line. You'll need a relay and a pressure switch to kick on the compressor (but I assume those came with your air bag kit). __________________ Jason - '67 GMC swb \| '57 Bel-Air 4dr hardtop \| '56 210 4dr Wagon \| 2000 GMC Sierra

07-01-2003, 10:55 AM	#6
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	All good stuff, but 3 way system bad. You will get bag roll in the rear and it will handle like $hit. Spend the extra $100 and get another valve setup, or run check valves and they will probably run ya $40 so you might as well BUST for the 4th valve set. Like slammed said the rest is straight forward, but I am one that likes the valve as close to bag as possible __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

07-01-2003, 10:58 AM	#7
XXL Señor Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Edge of the world Posts: 5,367	Panhard bar length isn't specific, only that it be as long as possible. The purpose of the bar is to center the rearend, and because the rear suspension travels up and down, the bar must travel on an arc to do this centering job. As a result of it traveling on an arc, it is actually "un-centering" the rearend all the time. The longer the Panhard bar, the less impact on this centering issue. Kenneth __________________ Craigslist \| ebay \| Engrishtees \| www.myattitudesucks.com \| Follow me on Twitter

07-01-2003, 10:16 PM	#8
Glen Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Chandler, AZ Posts: 189	The smc type valves require a slight amount of back pressure to maintain your pressure in the bag so make sure you use check valves, I run them just before the solenoid, this way if you loose tank pressure or are working on the system the bags will retain their pressure, otherwise the bag will deflate when the tank pressure is lost. also try to use the brass filters on the exhaust of the smc valve and they will close correctly after letting off the switch. I also run a small brass ball valve on the exhaust side so the car does not fall too fast especially on the front valves, if your running larg valves it will fall fast.



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