Project Goldilocks, '66 C10 SWB BBW Build

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by likaroc13

true dat, haha...maybe one day when my truck makes its way to SC, we can meet up....

those notches look great smoothed up & painted...hope the engine works out for ya

Thanks! I checked out your '66, I love me some black/white custom cabs! Awesome truck!

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

Great project, love the 6 plan. That Opala completely rocks, hope you get your six to that level, I'll definitely watch with interest.

I finally found the build specs for his engine, he's running 15.5:1 CR on methanol! I'm thinking around 13:1 with E85 should be doable and 105 octane E85 is pretty easy to find around here. Compression that high would help out with bottom end torque with a bigger cam so it would still be streetable. Just wanting something different than than a small block, everybody has those.



Got a little bit done this afternoon, worked in the yard most of the day. Flipped the frame up on its side so I could drill the bottom holes for the C notches and bag mounts. Man I hate drilling holes in steel this thick!




Here's a mini tech tip. Put some wide tape over the part that you will be mounting (bags in my case), and mark where the holes are. Then transfer the tape and use the markings as a template to drill your holes. You can center punch the part while the tape is on there too, and I was able to peel the tape off and use it again for the other side.




Center punched:




And here's what the notches looked like once the paint dried, its a fairly close match to the frame.

[chevyrestoguy]

Very, very nice work! I really like your attention to detail. All of that extra work will really pay off in the finished product.

Your tape template trick works well, as I have used it before. Another trick that works is to use a scrap piece of sheetmetal and double-back tape it or loop some duct tape to keep it in position.

I work in aerospace, and when we transfer holes, we use a drill bushing that has an O.D. that fits in the hole in the part (in your case, a 1/4" or .250"). The I.D. of the bushing has a small hole, usually around a .080". When you pop the holes, it's dead center in the middle, and then you remove the part and the bushing, and then step-drill to the final size. You can find drill bushings on-line in places like ebay.

A lot of times, guys fight drilling holes in steel because they try to drill the final hole size at the start. Always step drill, and work slowly. It'll save your drill bits from wearing out, and it'll keep you from breaking your fingers when the drill catches at the end. Been there, done that, but usually with a drill press. Those things can be evil

[65Pickup]

Great tips guys. Thanks for instructing us.

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Very, very nice work! I really like your attention to detail. All of that extra work will really pay off in the finished product.

Your tape template trick works well, as I have used it before. Another trick that works is to use a scrap piece of sheetmetal and double-back tape it or loop some duct tape to keep it in position.

I work in aerospace, and when we transfer holes, we use a drill bushing that has an O.D. that fits in the hole in the part (in your case, a 1/4" or .250"). The I.D. of the bushing has a small hole, usually around a .080". When you pop the holes, it's dead center in the middle, and then you remove the part and the bushing, and then step-drill to the final size. You can find drill bushings on-line in places like ebay.

A lot of times, guys fight drilling holes in steel because they try to drill the final hole size at the start. Always step drill, and work slowly. It'll save your drill bits from wearing out, and it'll keep you from breaking your fingers when the drill catches at the end. Been there, done that, but usually with a drill press. Those things can be evil

I'd never heard of drill bushings before, I'll have to look those up. Good to know! I did start out with a 3/16th hole before working up to a 3/8" bit for the air bag mounts, then 1/2" for the air line fitting, then using the air grinder and a carbide burr to open the hole up the rest of the way. I should have used a hole saw for the air line fitting; I'll know better when I do the other side though. I went slowly and used alot of pressure on the bit and kept it cool by spraying it with glass cleaner every few seconds. The bits aren't discolored or dull yet so I guess my method is working ok.


I use the looped tape trick all the time to keep masking paper/plastic in place, remembered that one from hanging up pictures of trucks I'd drawn in kindergarten

[gimmy 64]

clifford sells manifolds for mounting webbers to chey sixes. if you are serious about building a six you need to get Leo Santucci's book. those guy's in Brazil are getting 800 to 1100 horespower out of turboed 250 chevy sixes.

[likaroc13]

Originally Posted by theastronaut

Thanks! I checked out your '66, I love me some black/white custom cabs! Awesome truck!

thanks!

[theastronaut]

Originally Posted by gimmy 64

clifford sells manifolds for mounting webbers to chey sixes. if you are serious about building a six you need to get Leo Santucci's book. those guy's in Brazil are getting 800 to 1100 horespower out of turboed 250 chevy sixes.

Thanks, I looked on Clifford's website but only found manifolds for downdraft progressive(?) webers. I'm trying to find mani's to mount sidedraft two barrels, either Weber DCOE's or Dellorto DHLA's. Preferably Dellorto's. I'll definitly be picking up one of Stantucci's books. I'd be happy with 325-375 hp. One of the guys at work was showing me the throttle bodies off his 2011 Triumph Rocket 3 Roadster, and I may be looking into something like that also. The bike is three cylinder with individual TB's so I might could make something like that work.

Originally Posted by MalibuKasey

well Im doing a VERY similar build.... Stock "looking" but lowered. My Little V8 will "Look" like a stock 283/327.... MUHAHAHAH.
You do AMAZING work!!
So on mine I ran CPP's shock relocators with CPP shocks... It rides AWESOME! Better than my 03 dropped half as much!

Thanks dude! I'm waiting for updates on your build thread! I checked it out awhile back and love the style you're going for- that engine looks great! Good to know on the shock mounts, I'll look into those. I'm thinking about building my own, not sure yet but its good to see what others are running to get ideas

Originally Posted by likaroc13

thanks!

Welcome!


Got a little done last night. Went and picked up the bed wear strips from Trucks USA in Greenwood, SC (they look and fit great btw) and took the four short boards and two outer long boards home with me to mark the fenderwell openings and perimeter bolt holes. Only took a couple pics though. I should be able to get the bed wood painted this week, will have to wait til the support rails and wear strips are back from powdercoat before I can get the floor back in. Gunna scrub down the inside of the bed with steel wool and CLR while I've got the floor out to get rid of the rust stains on the tubs and flanges. I'll probably go over the paint inside the bed with some sort of cleaner wax to spiffy it up a lil bit too.

[theastronaut]

Progress may be slowed up a little on my '66. Dad found a '50 Chevy in a barn about two miles from the house and bought it yesterday so I'll be helping him get it back on the road. I'll start a build thread on it once we get that far with it. Plans include a dropped axle, bias ply tires, and leave the body like it is and run it. It's got a '59 engine that was running when he parked it (brakes went out) and hopefully won't take much to get it going again.