Drop springs is 3-5 ok without c notch?

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by kcjones

You sure can, but you'll definitely need the notch, then. Here's a quick cell pic of why a 6" drop spring probably should have a notch:

Attachment 414619


Also, in the pic below, with this stuff in the bed, I was drooping below the frame/axle clearance height, so with a 6" drop spring and any load, you'd be hitting frame:

Attachment 414620

I cannot dispute your pictures, but I do have some thoughts.

Your truck was originally a 3/4 ton longbed. Longbed, reinforced frame, tool box in bed,...

My experience has been with 1/2 ton shortbeds and Early Classic Springs and never a c notch.

As a matter of fact, I currently have a Honda Goldwing in the bed of my 1/2 ton shortbed truck and I have driven it no sweat.

[see ten]

I have Early Classic 6" drop springs and it does bottom out from time to time. TX I know you say you have never had a problem with them and your statements had a lot to do with my use of ECE 6" drop springs. That being said I don't doubt you or your statements...but my truck does bottom out from time to time out back. I drive my truck a lot and I drive it hard and it doesn't have issues all the time but it does have issues. So, from my experience, and my opinion, 5" of drop is optimal if you want to ride without bottoming out....Do I want to change my springs out now that I've gotten used to the look and the ride? Hell no!

[see ten]

My 3.5"/6" drop all ECE.



Brian's 2.5"/5" drop all ECE same tire wheel sizes.



2.5" drop spindles will make you much happier than 3" drop springs in the long run. If you can't afford em...save your money til you can. If I can't change your mind at least buy a set of 3" drop springs from me so I can save you some money. I've got a set we took out of one of my buds trucks when he went to drop spindles. You can get an alignment with 3" drop front springs but your ball joints will be at less than their optimal angle. Not to mention your lower control arms will more than likely bottom out on the crossmember.

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

That's because I think ECE doesn't recommend 3" drop coils in the front. It's hit and miss if you can get the alignment set correctly and since ECE is wanting to give the very best, they recommend dropped spindles and coils for 3"+ drops.

As they say, just because you can... doesn't mean you should. YMMV.

[Mondo]

Sorry double post.... just read below

[Mondo]

I have Early Classic stuff (including dropped spindles) but got the 3 inch springs from CPP. The alignment shop didn't want to put the amount of shims needed for alignment and I ended up buying tubular upper A arms from Brothers that are designed specifically for lowered trucks.

I think it's borderline with 3 inch springs (drop spindles dont affect alignment specs) and it's not to say another alignment shop might be willing to shim it up with longer bolts etc... seems others here have done it.

Personally I'd save up to buy an ECE drop kit with everything necessary to do it right... springs, adjustable track bar & shock mount relocators. The truck will drive great with this and an alignment.

For your info, I think what I have is as low as you can go without airbags and still have a good ride:
5.5in front 7in rear (C notch mandatory)

[kcjones]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I cannot dispute your pictures, but I do have some thoughts.

Your truck was originally a 3/4 ton longbed. Longbed, reinforced frame, tool box in bed,...

My experience has been with 1/2 ton shortbeds and Early Classic Springs and never a c notch.

As a matter of fact, I currently have a Honda Goldwing in the bed of my 1/2 ton shortbed truck and I have driven it no sweat.

TX, I think you're absolutely correct. When I spoke with ECE and then went and measured, it didn't quite line up (they said I should have at least 7" of distance between frame and axle with a stock spring/shock) with what I found on my truck. When I mentioned it was C20, I heard a "ahhh, yes", and "that explains it."

I do have some significant weight in that toolbox most of the time, and I also do drive my truck every day, often with a load. No cement or raw steel mega-loads, but my truck definitely has truck duty routinely. I posted in my mini-project thread warnings for C20 owners trying to do what the cool guys do with their half-ton shortbeds do - it's definitely not quite the same.

Thanks for the info.

Here's a question - with a 4 or 4.5" drop in front, am I the only one with long-tube header problems? I'm working on raising the money to go shorty headers and a drop cross member from ECE so I can tuck the exhaust above the frame all the way down, but in the meantime, is it just me?

[kcjones]

Originally Posted by Mondo

For your info, I think what I have is as low as you can go without airbags and still have a good ride:
5.5in front 7in rear (C notch mandatory)

Mondo, dude, I love your truck. It's making me want to cut my frame down today and start looking for a short fleet bed!

[see ten]

ECE also told me that their 6" drop coils would leave me with 3" between the axle tube and the frame. I have considerably less clearance than that which could explain why my truck hits.

[kcjones]

Originally Posted by see ten

ECE also told me that their 6" drop coils would leave me with 3" between the axle tube and the frame. I have considerably less clearance than that which could explain why my truck hits.

Now that's a stretch! Anyone out there with stock 1/2t springs that aren't sagging after 40 years of haulin' that can take a measurement? I'd bet 7-8" max clearance....suggesting a factory ride gives you 9" clearance would put the rear bumper of the truck high enough to pull a Miata underneath!

[matthufham]

i got a 5 inch spring in the rear, and a heavy rear gas tank and i have an inch between my axle and frame. how are so many people getting away without a c-notch. do you guys drive or load your trucks? i can't put a set of wheels back there without bottoming out on everything, and even unloaded and low tank of gas gives me trouble. i'm getting a c-notch before anything else on my truck.

[see ten]

Factory height springs...I don't know how much clearance...but it's tall.

[kcjones]

I don't know if I've ever seen such a good lookin' factory ride!

[kcjones]

Originally Posted by matthufham

i got a 5 inch spring in the rear, and a heavy rear gas tank and i have an inch between my axle and frame. how are so many people getting away without a c-notch. do you guys drive or load your trucks? i can't put a set of wheels back there without bottoming out on everything, and even unloaded and low tank of gas gives me trouble. i'm getting a c-notch before anything else on my truck.

MattHufham: I have CPP notches, 6" total drop in rear on my C20, and I bottom out (bumpstops) over big bumps if I have over 300 lbs in the bed. So I'm with you -- I don't understand how they do it!

[LuckyHenriksen]

Originally Posted by kcjones

Mondo, dude, I love your truck. It's making me want to cut my frame down today and start looking for a short fleet bed!

X2 man I want a shorty

[ripdog28]

Have lower spindels and 1in drop springs with 4in drop in rear but have a 19gal cell in back along with the battery relocated so figure will add to the drop. may do a weld up c-notch once rolling to see what i am left with or want to drop it more.

[Mondo]

Thanks guys,

I have ECE's rear springs but it's probably lower due to the rear gas tank.... and it doesn't hold much weight in the bed (though the softer springs due make for a nice ride). May get helper airbags in the future... wish they made air shocks for lowered trucks but I guess airbags have taken that role.

[au03z71]

Originally Posted by see ten

I have Early Classic 6" drop springs and it does bottom out from time to time. TX I know you say you have never had a problem with them and your statements had a lot to do with my use of ECE 6" drop springs. That being said I don't doubt you or your statements...but my truck does bottom out from time to time out back. I drive my truck a lot and I drive it hard and it doesn't have issues all the time but it does have issues. So, from my experience, and my opinion, 5" of drop is optimal if you want to ride without bottoming out....Do I want to change my springs out now that I've gotten used to the look and the ride? Hell no!

Did you notch the frame?

[see ten]

Originally Posted by au03z71

Did you notch the frame?

Nope.

[cheyenne10]

TTT

This post fits some of our questions. Now with a few more yrs past looking for updated opinions. Since ECE does not sell c-notch kit I assume I need a CPP c-notch kit to go with ECE 4/6 drop kit. (planning for later swapping to air-ride & bags)

Any new warnings or suggestions? Better way that ECE today?

Also planning to move to 18-20" wheels later

[Killick]

CPP has 2 3" notch kits, a heavier one for towing. Apparently 3" is as much notch as you can install without cutting into the bed. Is this accurate?

Originally Posted by cheyenne10

TTT

This post fits some of our questions. Now with a few more yrs past looking for updated opinions. Since ECE does not sell c-notch kit I assume I need a CPP c-notch kit to go with ECE 4/6 drop kit. (planning for later swapping to air-ride & bags)

Any new warnings or suggestions? Better way that ECE today?

Also planning to move to 18-20" wheels later

Posted via Mobile Device

[cheyenne10]

TTT for 2013 thoughts
Posted via Mobile Device

[72BlckButy]

Originally Posted by cheyenne10

TTT

This post fits some of our questions. Now with a few more yrs past looking for updated opinions. Since ECE does not sell c-notch kit I assume I need a CPP c-notch kit to go with ECE 4/6 drop kit. (planning for later swapping to air-ride & bags)

Any new warnings or suggestions? Better way that ECE today?

Also planning to move to 18-20" wheels later

Originally Posted by Killick

CPP has 2 3" notch kits, a heavier one for towing. Apparently 3" is as much notch as you can install without cutting into the bed. Is this accurate?

Posted via Mobile Device

Originally Posted by cheyenne10

TTT for 2013 thoughts
Posted via Mobile Device

A thread back from the dead.

To answer all three posts....

I have a 4.5/6" drop on my '69. All the products were purchased from ECE.

If you plan on loading your truck down with cement blocks, sand, rock, etc., then you will want to add a c-notch. If you plan on using it for lighter loads, etc., a c-notch will not be required.

After 2 years of running my ECE kit, I have bottomed out once when I came off a hwy bridge a little to fast. Other than that, I haven't bottomed out once. The ride is smooth and clean, not rough at all.

Only you know what you will use your truck for, but the kit without a c-notch works flawless for us.

Here's the specs before and after the ECE kit install and with a wheel change:

Before the drop w/ 15x8" ralleys running 235/75 R15's:
Driver's Side Front: 33 1/2"
Driver's Side Rear: 33"
Passenger Side Front: 33 1/4"
Passenger Side Rear: 32 7/8"

After the drop:
Driver's Side Front: 28"
Driver's Side Rear: 29"
Passenger Side Front: 28 1/4"
Passenger Side Rear: 28 3/4"

After the drop with 20" Vintec Wheels:
Driver's Side Front: 28 7/16""
Driver's Side Rear: 29 5/16"
Passenger Side Front: 28 1/2"
Passenger Side Rear: 29 5/16"

If you are going to run bags, then I would install the notch, air bags w/ schrader valves and run it until you are ready to install the air management kit. If I was going to order any parts I would order the spring drop from ECE and the c-notch from Porterbuilt as it is a two-piece design and much stronger than CPP's IMO. Personally... I wouldn't order from CPP but that is my choice.

[C0UCH]

Bit of an old thread, but relevant. I see a lot of talk about not using a 3"+ spring up front, but looking at the Hotchkis site today they have a 4/6 spring drop available. I'm going full Porterbuilt coilover (when I have enough funds) but for now want to throw some lowering springs in until then. Says they include some parts for use with stock arms, but I'm not 100% sold on it if even 3" is giving troubles. Any input on this?

http://www.hotchkis.net/6772_c10_spo...l_springs.html