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11-26-2003, 11:00 PM
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#1 |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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HEI Conversion
I'm going to be attempting to install a used HEI in the '70 pickup (350, all original currently, still running points), most likely tomorrow.
Search on metacrawler, and a search of the board (board search didn't really turn up anything, kept it limited to 67-72 forum) still leave me with a few questions. What's the preferred method for hookup of the HEI? IE, where do I need to draw power from? Is the resistor wire for points powered full time? (I believe there is a bypass wire energized from the starter in the "start" position, wondering if this caused GM to make the resistor only energized in RUN). One site I came across suggested replacing the resistor wire with a 12 guage wire and I'd be good to go, but if it's not energized full time it could cause headaches (also someone else suggested capping off and labling the old points wires in case the HEI ever failed, keeping the old points dizzy under the seat). I'm hoping all the parts on this dizzy are good, I'll check the vacuum advance tomorrow with a vacuum pump to make sure it works before installation, other than that everything felt good. What is the reccomended oil to use for the parts? They all feel good, but it seems to me that some more oil couldn't hurt since the dizzy is out and in my hands... Any tips or suggestions for this hookup? I figured I might bump the engine until the timing mark is visible under the guage for the timing, that way if I do get messed up during the install I know what plug the rotor should be pointing to and can go from there. Thanks, Ryan P.S. I also managed to break my heater core last chance I had to work on this truck... a few months ago. Hoping the HEI will cure some of the perpetual problems I've had preventing the truck from being dependable. |
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11-26-2003, 11:03 PM
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#2 |
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PROJECT 7DEUCE
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: GRANTS PASS OR
Posts: 21,590
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This topic was just heavily discused here is a very good wiring sch that was posted with it..
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GO BIG GREEN  GO DUCKSMEMBER #6377 72 k-5 daily driver 6'' lift 35'' 350-350-205 slowly getting rust free. Project "7DEUCE" check out my build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=267665 Tim Powell..R.I.P EastSideLowlife..... R.I.P.. |
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11-26-2003, 11:05 PM
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#3 |
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I need more money....
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Posts: 145
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There is a step by step in the FAQ that should tell you everything you need to know
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Jay.   '68 LWB C10 '74 Duster ("It's not Rusted out, it's been modified for weight reduction") '91 Civic '97 Saturn '88 Celica AWD turbo (R.I.P.) 273 hp Mustang Killer |
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11-26-2003, 11:12 PM
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#4 | |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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Quote:
Thanks to both of you! Another question... Where does the new wire start? At the ign switch? At the fuse box? or? Thanks |
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11-26-2003, 11:33 PM
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#5 |
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Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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__________________
'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American  (or Canadian).
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11-26-2003, 11:43 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Shreveport LA
Posts: 3,170
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11-26-2003, 11:44 PM
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#7 |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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Thanks, that helps...
so I need to come in from the fuse box? I'm thinking I'm going to have to be looking at the truck to completely see where I'm putting everything, havn't been under the hood or the dash of the truck in a few months because it's been so far away (another reason I need to get it fixed this trip!) and I keep trying to think in terms of the IH wiring, which can be confusing to say the least... What's the easiest way to connect through the fuse box? Last edited by Baradium; 11-26-2003 at 11:46 PM. |
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11-26-2003, 11:57 PM
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#8 |
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Psycho-billy Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: about 40 miles west of Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 2,591
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There should be a switched spade in the fuse box.....that's where i put my wire. Ran it through the firewall and to the dizzy......that's all there was to it.
__________________
'72 C-10 350 w/Lunati Voodoo cam (207*/213*, .437/.454), Performer intake, 625 Road Demon Jr. and Hooker headers. Support your community, support yourself. Buy local, buy American (or Canadian).
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11-27-2003, 12:24 AM
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#9 |
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Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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I just take the center bolt out of the bulkhead connector on the firewall. Remove the original resistor wire (was once white with a fabric type insulation) and the brass terminal with a pair of needle nose pliers. If your'e careful, you can re-use the connector. Hook the connecter back up to a regular piece of wire, plug it back into the fusebox and you're done. Too bad you're not closer, I just found a box of about 300 of the OEM connectors in the garage. I have no idea how I ended up with that many of those things.
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Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! |
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11-27-2003, 12:28 AM
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#10 | |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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Quote:
Where are you at? That sure is a lot of them!!! Hopefully everything will work the first go around, because otherwise I might find myself stuck... Thanks, Ryan |
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11-27-2003, 12:38 AM
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#11 |
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Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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I am in Nevada. Sure, you can start at the bulkhead connector. It makes for a clean installation because you don't have to drill a hole through the firewall and run the wire through it. If you want, PM your address to me and I'll send you a few. They come in handy if you ever need to replace a wire on the firewall side of the bulkhead connector.
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Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! |
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11-27-2003, 12:42 AM
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#12 | |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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Quote:
It looks like you have PM disabled... if you enable it I'll gladly PM you! Thanks  Do I use regular motor oil to oil the thing up while it's out or is there a special type I need? Thanks, Ryan |
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11-27-2003, 12:48 AM
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#13 |
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Merciless Butcher
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: CC Nevada
Posts: 1,447
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OK, PM is back on....Greg
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Your Bought And Sold....I Got Your Soul! |
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11-27-2003, 01:03 AM
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#14 |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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PM Sent
Thanks, Ryan |
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11-27-2003, 02:07 PM
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#15 |
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Binder Rep
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Salcha, AK
Posts: 1,506
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Ok, looking at the cap for the HEI, it looks like there should be 3 prongs on the inner plug in the cap (the one going to the dizzy body), there are also three wires on the dizzy body's connector. The center connector is the missing one.
On the cap it says D+ GRD C- (IIRC) do know that GRD is in the middle. I take this to mean that the center one is supposed to be the ground. Does this mean the ign will not work with this cap or is that center connector not neccessary? IE: Do I need to buy a new cap? Parts stores probobly aren't even open today... |
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11-28-2003, 01:30 PM
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#16 |
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Pronounced "Pew-al-up"
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Puyallup, Washington
Posts: 845
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Okay I am hooking mine up today. I can eliminate the yellow wire going to the starter, and the existing wire going to the coil and replace it with a new one coming from non fused irnition at the fusebox.(12g) Then I can run my tach wire to the post marked tach on the HEI???
No ground necessary?? Thanks.
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Classic GM Trucks of Washington Club Member 1970 FS chevy,350/350, Edelbrock cam and intake. Holley 650 carb,HEI,AT,Tangier Orange, 18's, Power Locks, Truck Photos |
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