Fix rust vs buying another cab 68

[marcolara]

Good morning! I'm evaluating the level of effort to get my 68 c10 body as clean as I wanted to be. My cab has seen better days and is pretty much pretty beat up now. I'm wondering if I should spend the money to get it fixed (and how expensive that would be) vs just getting another cab which that alone is not as easy around where I am.

Here are some picture with the mayor damage my cab has.

1) All floor supports are badly rusted
2) Windshield frame is all bubbling up with rust already
3) Can see through the floor kick panels right where the floor and the panel meet.
4) Dash radio has been hacked
5) Some dents in the exterior of the cab between the rear window and the door corner section.

I went to a body shop here in Temecula CA, and they quoted me 12k to do the entire truck. That is just insane given that I cannot afford a show truck. Is going to be my occasional daily driver, but don't want a trailer queen.

Thanks!

Thanks


Question is... is it worth fixing? How difficult is it to fix these sections?

[White70C20]

That looks very similar to my '70 daily driver. Unless, you are planning on entering it in Concours style car shows, I'd drive it the way it is. Lots of aftermarket places sell complete floor pans and replacement rocker panels which aren't very expensive, you just have to either have a welder or know somebody that does.

Good luck.

[Dano69c10]

Check out this thread;
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595960

Jenn and Jeremiah aren't too far from you and they might have a cab you can use. I've bought parts from them at Pomona, good folks.

Dano

[leddzepp]

You can find another cab here in SoCal easily. Jenn and Jeremiah have a totally rust free cab for sale right now for $800, and they are very close to your area. 12K is retarded ridiculous.
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[jeremiah king]

Why yes I do have a beautiful cab right now! Thanks Scott for the props. Jenn

[mmiddle]

DANG!!!!!! what did they use on the radio cut-out? A battery powered Beaver?

[SuperC10Tex]

Originally Posted by mmiddle

DANG!!!!!! what did they use on the radio cut-out? A battery powered Beaver?

Beer Bottle Opener!!!!

[PanelDeland]

"Church Key"


The old farts will get that.

[ksp965]

http://www.democraticunderground.com...ss=105x8992857
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[marcolara]

Well, the good news is that I did get another cab today all thanks to Jenn and Jeremiah's business. Jenn was really professional and very knowledgeable about the many parts they have there. Huge thanks to everybody here in the forum! Now I can stop having nightmares about how much time and money is needed to fix the rust bucket.

[jeremiah king]

Thanks Marco for the business. I know that the cab and doors will save you a lot of headache for sure. Let me now if you need any other parts. Jenn

[bigmac73]

Do you guys down in SoCal ever drive your projects down to Tijuana, i heard back the days that was the best way to get a good quality/ cheap paint and body job??

[jeremiah king]

I have customers that do, or are building there trucks down there. If I was mexican and spoke spanish maybe I would consider it, but tj can be scary these days. I personally just run patina'd original parts. Jenn

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by marcolara

Good morning! I'm evaluating the level of effort to get my 68 c10 body as clean as I wanted to be. My cab has seen better days and is pretty much pretty beat up now. I'm wondering if I should spend the money to get it fixed (and how expensive that would be) vs just getting another cab which that alone is not as easy around where I am.

Here are some picture with the mayor damage my cab has.

1) All floor supports are badly rusted
2) Windshield frame is all bubbling up with rust already
3) Can see through the floor kick panels right where the floor and the panel meet.
4) Dash radio has been hacked
5) Some dents in the exterior of the cab between the rear window and the door corner section.

I went to a body shop here in Temecula CA, and they quoted me 12k to do the entire truck. That is just insane given that I cannot afford a show truck. Is going to be my occasional daily driver, but don't want a trailer queen.

Thanks!

Thanks


Question is... is it worth fixing? How difficult is it to fix these sections?

Dash, dents and that other stuff is pretty easy to take care of. Those rusted rockers are another matter, though. If you are careful, you have a support for the can before you remove them you'll be OK but that is one long job and it will take a lot of patience to get it right. That is also not a job to give to a shop. You don't know how they will "fix" those rcokers and believe me, most shops will not replace those with spotted in new ones. If it were mune, I would start looking for another cab. Just remember, the VIN tag is on the cab so if you don't want to have problems with the DMV for title washing get the rivets from one of the board members here and transfer the vin tag from the old cab to the new one using the CORRECT rivets.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

"Church Key"


The old farts will get that.

Did you have to remind me????

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Dash, dents and that other stuff is pretty easy to take care of. Those rusted rockers are another matter, though. If you are careful, you have a support for the can before you remove them you'll be OK but that is one long job and it will take a lot of patience to get it right. That is also not a job to give to a shop. You don't know how they will "fix" those rcokers and believe me, most shops will not replace those with spotted in new ones. If it were mune, I would start looking for another cab. Just remember, the VIN tag is on the cab so if you don't want to have problems with the DMV for title washing get the rivets from one of the board members here and transfer the vin tag from the old cab to the new one using the CORRECT rivets.

Who needs rivets? Most just take the whole panel section with the plate attached and weld it in to the other cab.
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[marcolara]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Dash, dents and that other stuff is pretty easy to take care of. Those rusted rockers are another matter, though. If you are careful, you have a support for the can before you remove them you'll be OK but that is one long job and it will take a lot of patience to get it right. That is also not a job to give to a shop. You don't know how they will "fix" those rcokers and believe me, most shops will not replace those with spotted in new ones. If it were mune, I would start looking for another cab. Just remember, the VIN tag is on the cab so if you don't want to have problems with the DMV for title washing get the rivets from one of the board members here and transfer the vin tag from the old cab to the new one using the CORRECT rivets.

Well, I did end up getting a new cab out of a 69, and now you got me thinking about the serial and title. Where can I get more info or literature about doing the conversion the right way? I sure don't want to have any sorprises down the line with DMV as they can be a bit of a pain to work with. You me mentioned rivets, what type of rivets? Where are the serial numbers on the cab? Are there any markings on the cab other than the serial plate?
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