4x4 Power Steering

[61K10]

my axle is a dana44 closed knuckle 1961. 3/4t is called HD44 steering the same?

[61K10]

my modded steering arm and the piece that got cut out

[BigSix]

Originally Posted by 61K10

my modded steering arm and the piece that got cut out

That looks great! So did you end up welding the pieces on top of each other? Or did you cut the section out and butt weld? If you have a picture from the side that would be awesome. I thought about cutting and then welding on top of the original arm so as to move up the hole and make the drag link even flatter.

[61K10]

Mine was butt welded (by a pro) I did not weld it. I told him to plate it top and bottom, He said it was not necessary. I could still do it myself. you could do it like you said, just cut and lay on top, weld. Do not try do do this with a little mig!!! This is your decision.

[padresag]

I wouldn't leave any faith in a piece of steering that was butt welded. it is your life and any else's that gets in the way when it lets go.
ron

[61K10]

So Ron, how would you do it? like the one you have? It didn't look to professional welded to me. should i plate mine top and bottom like yours? I under the seriousness of this mod.

[BigSix]

Thanks for the info on how you did it. I was only thinking of welding on top of eachother to further flatten the drag link and make steering better/less bumpsteer. Not sure I would feel safe with just a butt weld either but I don't know about welding that much - I am using a guy thats got an oven for welding on cast and has been doing it for years. Again, thanks for the pics and info!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by 61K10

So Ron, how would you do it? like the one you have? It didn't look to professional welded to me. should i plate mine top and bottom like yours? I under the seriousness of this mod.

the one that I have is plated top and bottom 3/16. it was done in the early 80's. look at it this way. would you butt weld a tie rod or drag link and I doubt if it would ever pass inspection,( i wonder if even one reinforced would even pass inspection)
I think that the plating reinforcement would make me feel a little more secure and never have to think about it
It is your truck and I am a little direct most times when I say something. at least I got you to think about it. it does look like a nice job and grinders always make them look perfect.
ron

[61K10]

Thanks for the reply Ron. I originally told him that i wanted it plated like yours, but like i said in another post, he said it wasn't necessary. this guy is matriculate as they come. probably plate it myself, I am a decent welder just not certified and have a 220v mig.

[Captainfab]

I would never butt weld a critical part such as a pitman arm and not reinforce it. I also would not cut it straight. It is simply not worth the liability and the possibility of killing people if it were to fail.

[61K10]

anybody know how much it would cost to have one made? any cnc machine shop?

[Captainfab]

The cost depends on how you want it to look. Are you looking for that fully machined look? If that look is not terribly important, I would suggest having one CNC laser or HD plasma cut and then the holes can be drilled and reamed as needed. In fact one of my suppliers has a machine that can both drill the holes and HD plasma cut the profile at the same time. Then the holes would just need to be reamed to the proper taper. IMO that would be the most cost effective.

Originally Posted by 61K10

anybody know how much it would cost to have one made? any cnc machine shop?

[BigSix]

Originally Posted by 61K10

my modded steering arm and the piece that got cut out

Whats interesting is that I just marked my arm on the axle and its about exactly 2" that need to be cut out but you're showing 1.5" or so. With the wheels pointed straight, in order to get my draglink parallel with the leaf/frame, I would have to cut out 2". Is your draglink parallel to the leaf/frame with 1.5" cut out? Maybe our boxes, pitman arm, and frame adapter brackets are spacing things out a little differently and thats why we are off eachothers measurements by .5"? I have a 69 box, captain fab bracket, and 81 pitman arm.

[BigSix]

Sorry I think I misstated things. I didn't mean to say I was keeping things parallel to the frame as a way to measure...more as a way to say front>back. I want to make sure I am measuring correctly and I am starting to think keeping the tiller arm off the axle longer is better for driveability. I haven't cut anything yet. Can you steer lock to lock with 1.5" cut off?

[61K10]

If you look at the piece that was cut out with the tape it's 1-5/8" minus 2 saw cuts which make it 1 3/4". my total length from center of king pin to drag ling hole is 6 3/8". now i have a dropped pitman arm, don't know if that will make a difference. I thank when i set it up i used the stock p/arm. I wounder fi you could just drill a new hole 1-3/4" shorter and add some more support around the tip? don't know what else to tell you. I will probably add some plates to mine just for piece of mind.

[BigSix]

I just went out and ran the steering from lock to lock. I held the drag link at 1" shortened and 1.5" shortened. As far as I could tell 1" shorter keeps everything away from hitting and still keeps the arm on the axle (tiller) long. I don't want to lose too much mechanical advantage...I am thinking of shortening as little as possible to keep out of the leafs. I think I am going with 1" - from my calculations, padresag, also shortened approximately 1". I haven't made up my mind completely and I also have a 3/4 tons and I don't believe anyone else here has done it to a 3/4 ton and there may be some difference there. Lets see what happens!

[padresag]

should all be the same, same frame dimensions- same steering box dimensions. you want the relation ship from thee pitman arm and the steering arm to be synchronized for length and you want to use the full length of travel of pitman arm to use the full travel of the steering arm. if the steering arm is to long, you will not get full travel from your wheels and if it is shorter you will turn faster. though if shorter it will put more stress on your frame.
don't think that the draglink being parallel to the frame matters. just centre you steering wheel on the shaft when all is done.
This is the measurement from my old one and it worked fine on mine

ron

[BigSix]

Originally Posted by padresag

EDITED you want the relation ship arm and the steering arm to be synchronized for length and you want to use the full length of travel of pitman arm to use the full travel of the steering arm.

I think you said it perfectly right there. As far as I could tell, and we'll only really know when I get the arm back, 1" shorter gave me the best balance of getting it out of the ubolts/leaf and taking advantage of the most "steer" for my setup. If I was off in my measurement I'll have to find another arm and start over. Will definitely check for lock to lock steering, and clearance/interference and post back for anyone interested.

[tugster67]

i am doing the same thing and ran into trouble, my frame has a dimple in it so do i need that bracket you showed? i have pictures of it I will try to show you.

[Captainfab]

If your truck or it's frame is a '69-'72, then no adapter plate or spacers are needed. They came from the factory with power steering.

Originally Posted by tugster67

i am doing the same thing and ran into trouble, my frame has a dimple in it so do i need that bracket you showed? i have pictures of it I will try to show you.

[tugster67]

Originally Posted by 61K10

my modded steering arm and the piece that got cut out

do yo have a part # for that steering arm?

[tugster67]

Originally Posted by Jwernquist

Alright here is what I have :

First photo is the new 4x4 steering box

second new and old arm however the new arm has too small of a
hole to fit the new steering box? Supposedly they were paired so napa says.
3rd and 4th is the steering arm and position.

I have all the new bits to connect the steering box to the steering arm but not the correct arm off the steering box yet.

Ill purchase the modified steering arm from the member that posted if that would save me some time modifying my current one.

As far as the engine is concerned I have all the necessary brackets to mount the pump and the alternator which is almost done. My main concern is getting the new steering box to the steering arm

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

where can i get a new steering arm like in this picture???

[padresag]

Originally Posted by tugster67

where can i get a new steering arm like in this picture???

which picture are you talking about? you say picture 3 & 4 but there are only three pictures. your pictures are not all that easy to look at.
looking at the 3rd (last pic); is the pitman arm(the one off the strg box) centred?. if it is then you have something out of whack. is your steering box for a 2 wheel drive or a 4 wheel drive(this has happened before)
ron

[tugster67]

Originally Posted by padresag

which picture are you talking about? you say picture 3 & 4 but there are only three pictures. your pictures are not all that easy to look at.
looking at the 3rd (last pic); is the pitman arm(the one off the strg box) centred?. if it is then you have something out of whack. is your steering box for a 2 wheel drive or a 4 wheel drive(this has happened before)
ron

here is another picture, I need a new steering arm and I cant find one no where! its the arm bolted to the top of the drum on wheel.

[tugster67]

Originally Posted by 61K10

my modded steering arm and the piece that got cut out

I need a modded steering arm just like yours, Can you tell me where to get it please ? thank you so much!!!