what paint to use

[Jbm1956]

Ok Im struggling in this area. Im wanting to paint my 56 and it will be on a budget. I want it to look nice but cant afford the higher end stuff. Ive been looking at Eastwood, and the duplicolor paint shop from local auto parts store. Also TCP Global the company that has hot rod flatz also the coating store. And I hear planet color has something out with Barrett Jackson line of paint. How do you know what paint to go with that will hold up in the sun and last a while. What are your guys thoughts on those brands listed or recommendations on something else. Single stage urethane/ base coat clear coat. Im just confused thanks guys.

[roger55]

Take a look at the paint from Summit for a cheap solution. It was single-stage urethane in Wimbledon White.

I bought some for my truck wheels, bumpers, grille and headlight bezels. I thought for cheap paint it was very good. I'm going to use a top brand for the rest of the truck though.

I did little reducer (slow) in the mix to get a better flow. I also used a $450 Iwata spray gun. Your results may vary with a cheap gun.

[Jbm1956]

Why that looks pretty good. Can I ask why your going to spray the truck with something different if you like the summit paint. Is it just not that great to spray your entire truck with it or just personal preference. Cuz to me that looks really nice

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

Why that looks pretty good. Can I ask why your going to spray the truck with something different if you like the summit paint. Is it just not that great to spray your entire truck with it or just personal preference. Cuz to me that looks really nice

I'm painting the truck dark green.

My previous experiences with cheaper paints have told me that the UV protection is not as good. That is something I didn't worry about with the off-white color. I was willing to take a risk with this paint on these small parts. I don't want to take a risk with the rest of it.

[OrrieG]

After all the time you will spend doing bodywork, blocking,etc. Saving money on paint that willnot showcase the body work is not worth it, especially when you consider that it will bug you and you will end up resanding and shooting it over.

[Jbm1956]

Ok I get what you guys are saying. But it confuses where do you draw the line of not so good paint and good paint. For exalmple the hot rod flatz and summit paint that you refered to as well as Eastwood compared to what you get at a paint shop. The name brands make generic brand paint. Like dupont. You ask someone about dupont and they say its good paint. So you ask them about the duplicolor paint shop at oreilly (local auto parts) which is made by dupont and now all of a sudden its not as good. Im just trying to get an idea of where the line is drawn and decent paint to go with without spending a lot of money. I appreciate all your info.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

Ok I get what you guys are saying. But it confuses where do you draw the line of not so good paint and good paint. For exalmple the hot rod flatz and summit paint that you refered to as well as Eastwood compared to what you get at a paint shop. The name brands make generic brand paint. Like dupont. You ask someone about dupont and they say its good paint. So you ask them about the duplicolor paint shop at oreilly (local auto parts) which is made by dupont and now all of a sudden its not as good. Im just trying to get an idea of where the line is drawn and decent paint to go with without spending a lot of money. I appreciate all your info.

Forget the Duplicolor. It's a lacquer. I wouldn't use that on anything. Pure crap.

[NeverDone50]

I paint cars for a living for collision repair and I've shot the lower end to the high end paints. For the most part, you get what you pay for. In my opinion, stick with a two-stage urethane, meaning color with a clear coat on top. Stay away from single-stage because if you're going to put that much effort to paint it, make sure it's going to last. Single-stage is just less forgiving and doesn't last. I painted my old Honda with Nason and it's a less expensive paint. Never waxed it and it sat outside in the sun without fading.

[Iceburgh]

For the price both the summit and Eastwood lays down nice and lasts. I painted a truck with eastwood about 7 years ago. Still looks great

[roger55]

Paint quality being equal, a single-stage urethane will last just as long as base/clear does. Custom car painters will almost always choose a single-stage for a black or white and many will choose it for any solid color. Different story with a metallic paint. Base/clear is always recommended for that in any color.
Collision work is different. There may be reasons there for a different choice.

[Jbm1956]

I think im starting to get it lol. Some say go single stage some say go 2 stage. Too many choices. I dont want to spend a bunch of money and it get scratched because then ill be mad lol. But I dont want to use something that im going to have to paint again in a year or so. Im leaning toward using the paint from. the coating store.. or the hot rod flatz. I guess they make a urethane and gloss finish as well. And now that summit paint looks good. I wouldn't mind at all if my truck looked like the bumper and grille. To me that looks good...

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

And now that summit paint looks good. I wouldn't mind at all if my truck looked like the bumper and grille. To me that looks good...

Remember I used an Iwata gun for that. Don't expect to get the results I got with a cheap gun.
Gun settings make a difference too.

Even if you intend to color sand and buff, you want to lay it down as smooth as you can.

What color are you wanting? Solid or metallic? Choosing a solid color like that Wimbledon White would a good choice. The whites are the most forgiving for a beginner.

Do you have some experience spraying these paints or are you going to have someone else spray it?

If you give us some more information, it will help us help you.

[Jbm1956]

Sorry about that. I have a guy thats going to do the bodywork and paint. Im wanting to do a copper color. I found a few that I liked. Im thinking going with a solid color just because its easier.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

Sorry about that. I have a guy thats going to do the bodywork and paint. Im wanting to do a copper color. I found a few that I liked. Im thinking going with a solid color just because its easier.

To me a copper would look way, way better in a metallic. I think you might be hard pressed to find a copper in a solid.

If the guy's got experience, metallics are not a problem. But like I said before, you absolutely should go base/clear that way. Base/clear in a metallic is not any harder for a pro. If your guy is not a pro or not real experienced and you are really wanting that color, I would find a pro.

[Jbm1956]

I like that copper color from summit. But its a sinle stage. I was at first looking at the satin finish but I heard it really dont last.

[Jbm1956]

Do they sell a single stage clear for the urethane. Wouldn't that make the paint last longer if I put a clear on it. It would still be reasonably priced

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

I like that copper color from summit. But its a sinle stage. <snip>

One important question to ask is, "What is your painter comfortable with?", be it single stage or base/clear. Personally, I'm a base/clear guy. For the past few years I've been shooting Upol primers, NAPA/Martin Senour Crossfire(second line) basecoats and Southern Polyurethanes' Universal Clear, with show-winning results (most recently Best of Class in the Dayton, OH Concours d'Elegance, and here, Best of Show in Columbus, Ohio with this old rag GTO...).


This is now a four year old paint job and it looks like day one, all done with "second-line" paints. I can't say enough, in particular, about Barry and his Southern Polyurethanes clear -- and he ships "free". (Well, it's built into the price, but you'll be shocked at how cost-effective it is.) It's not often that you find a company owner that's available to you on the phone during work hours, after hours and on weekends, but Barry pretty much is.

[roger55]

Hey Bob. I'm also a fan of SPI Universal Clear and won't use anything else.
I also love their epoxy primer.

Here's my '55 Bel Air. I used Pro-Spray base, Universal Clear and sprayed it with an Iwata LH-400 gun. I did not color sand and buff. This is as-sprayed and painted in my garage.

[Joe Pass]

I just finished using the Summit flat blue on my 62. Like most on here I have years of experience with urethane base paints. With that said I was Impressed with the product and the price. People talk about it not lasting and you get what you pay or but its produced by U-pol a major player in the paint industry. I had learned to use it like most products on the market (learning curve) and its not high priced so you can experiment awhile with it. Paint is like politics, you make informed choice and pick one and learn from it.
Good Luck with your painting
Attachment 1316617Attachment 1316617

[Stickman]

Originally Posted by roger55

Hey Bob. I'm also a fan of SPI Universal Clear and won't use anything else.
I also love their epoxy primer.

Here's my '55 Bel Air. I used Pro-Spray base, Universal Clear and sprayed it with an Iwata LH-400 gun. I did not color sand and buff. This is as-sprayed and painted in my garage.

Beautiful Car

[DransportGarage]

Originally Posted by roger55

Hey Bob. I'm also a fan of SPI Universal Clear and won't use anything else.
I also love their epoxy primer.

Here's my '55 Bel Air. I used Pro-Spray base, Universal Clear and sprayed it with an Iwata LH-400 gun. I did not color sand and buff. This is as-sprayed and painted in my garage.

VERY nice '55. That's one awesome job to have shot and not buffed!

Not to hijack (of course not!), but I have a '55 sedan as well, painted with red/beige lacquer in 1981 -- still standing tall. I'm currently shooting with a Sata 4000 HVLP gun.

Good luck, JBM, with your choices! Be sure to let us know what you pick.

[roger55]

Thanks Bob. I love your goat too. My dream right now is to get a '65 GTO convertible for my next project.

I'm thinking that our hijack is still helping JBM by just seeing other jobs here and what products we like to use.

[Jbm1956]

Yea that works for me. I like seeing what other people use. It shows you really dont have to use high dollar paint to have a nice vehicle. Please keep the ideas coming

[_Ogre]

not sure to what level your finishing your truck.
if your blowing it apart to do rust repair and bodywork including blocking to make your panels smooth.
the actual paint is the easy part, all the work and most of the money is in the prep
throwing cheap paint at good bodywork is a waste of your time

if your just fixing up your truck with a frame on fix up, not removing the panels or cab
cheap paint will be fine
it will look good for the level of effort and it will preserve the body for the next generation of truck builder

a lot depends on what level your taking it to

truk started out to be fixed up
i ended up doing a lot more bodywork than i expected; to a level i had never worked to before
luckily i had painters available to help me out, i was able to barter my paint

also: before oem started using bc/cc vehicles looked dingy after 7 years, paint degraded as it left the factory
now you see rusted out hulks that have perfect bc/cc in the good areas

[NeverDone50]

Originally Posted by roger55

Paint quality being equal, a single-stage urethane will last just as long as base/clear does. Custom car painters will almost always choose a single-stage for a black or white and many will choose it for any solid color. Different story with a metallic paint. Base/clear is always recommended for that in any color.
Collision work is different. There may be reasons there for a different choice.

I'm not sure where you get your info or which custom painters you know, but I gotta disagree. Single stage urethane doesn't have the same UV protection that a clear coat does. Yeah, if you wax it and maintain the single-stage paint properly, it will last a long time. No offense, but single stage is just lazy. I'm not just a collision painter, I do custom work as well (and know many other custom painters) and no one I know would ever choose single stage over two-stage clear. Single stage cannot be wet sanded/polished as well or as much as a clear coat. Final product will always be superior with a clear coat, hands down.