intake options

[feller]

OK, I've got a 4.8/4l60 out of a 2001 Silverado, and am looking for a way to slim down the intake for hood clearance, I know I can put a car intake on but I hear that robs power, and I don't want to switch the injectors and all. Are there any other options for a budget build, I've seen where you can cut off all the mounting fins and what not but I'm not too fond of that either, any help with this would be great

[bpatrol]

a car intake doesn't rob power it just changes the powerband. if its not a performance application then a complete ls1 intake with injectors and rails can be had for a good price.
Put an appropriate cam in there and watch it wake up!
good luck
bpatrol
p.s. a stock intake should clear with the right mounts anyways

[homemade87]

What are you putting it in . I would have thought you would have not had any problem putting that combo in a truck . The truck intake would be the best if able to keep it .

[BR3W CITY]

I don't think there's any truck (at least that we cover on this forum) that would have a hood clearance issue with the truck intake. The LS motor is smaller in every way than the SBC.

We can fit Holley Hi-Rams or whipple's under about 95% of the hoods here.

[H20cooled]

I have the exact same year motor and tranny in my 68 C10 with the stock truck intake and setup with no issues, there is lots of room for a larger intake if I wanted it.

[feller]

OK, you guys caught me, its not going in a truck, its an 86 Monte, but most of my L's swap info has been found here, and, this forum has been pretty good to me so I thought an off topic question wouldn't hurt, would an L's 3 cam work with a ls1 intake, or should I stick with ls1/ ls1. Etc

[H20cooled]

You should try LS1tech, there is a huge amount of info in there for LS swaps if you go to the conversion forums in there you will probably find someone that did a swap like you are doing.

[68GMCCustom]

LS3 cam is designed for the larger rectangular port intake...for rectangular port (L92, LS3 style) heads, for 6.0L (or 4.0" min. cyl. bore) and larger motors. I'd think there are better choices for a 4.8L.

[feller]

H20 I've lurked at a bunch of other forums, and there's a lot of great info, and even found one that had a 50 or 60 some odd page of nothing but g-bodys but found it hard to follow, plus people tend to say why don't you get rid of what you have and start all over again. In the end I want this car to basically be a reliable, drivable car that doesn't suck gas and still makes solid power unlike the 305 that was stock, oh and did I mention I want it to look cool too. Really the intake will fit but the top cover won't, this is where the look cool comes in. Guess what I am really trying to say is I am more comfortable with this forum take it as a complement, thank you all, the whole forum that is, but more specially anyone who has answered my questions.

[homemade87]

Feller , If you are wanting to try to maintain some performance and drive ability I would try to get a ls1 or ls6 intake .Ls1 intake will be more plentiful and cheaper and do what you need . Low profile . Be aware it is not a direct bolt in . There will be several mods you will have to do to get them to work . I have not done this intake swap so I can not give all the particulars . If you can get a complete intake you may be ahead of the game . There is a ton of info on the performancetrucks.net . They do this swap all the time .

[feller]

Yeah it isn't a direct bolt on, apparently you have to change most if not all the accessories over to fbody, addind even more cost, guess I'll just live without putting the cover on, thanks guys.

[H20cooled]

There are some amazing truck intakes that they shaved the top stuff off of and painted, they look as good if not better than the LS1/LS6 intakes. But from looking at the info its a lots of cutting, filling, and sanding work to get them to look smooth.

Rich

[68GMCCustom]

aren't there some accessory drive options that modify the typical truck accessory belt path, and allow bolting a car intake to a truck motor? Like Kwik Performance, Dirty Dingo, Holley or some other company?

[MalibuSSwagon]

The biggest clearance issue is the upper water neck on the truck WP and throttle body on the LS1 intake want to occupy the same space. There are a few different ways to solve that. you can use a 2008+ truck water pump, or an f-body pump with spacers.

[Mikec10]

I heard by swapping to the ls1 or ls6 intake you actually lose some hp and tq in the mid range

[BR3W CITY]

On a mostly stock truck the car intake will make a few less tq and a few more HP. At higher power levels (more air flow), the car intake will make more power and higher RPM. The truck intake can still make huge power, but if we're being technical, the car will make a few more hp.

NOW that being said, there are some vehicles in which going with smaller headers and the truck manifold provides a bit more torque for towing etc has a benefit. .

The L92 truck intake is a different story also.

[67Mal]

To me the Gen 4 truck intake looks somewhat better than the Gen 3 when
running without the cover. Not mine, pic I took at LS Fest.

[NorCalAnthony]

The general rule of thumb for stock cathedral port intakes is LS1 < Truck (‘07 down) < LS6 < TBSS / ’07 up trucks. The TBSS is the same as the newer truck intakes and was designed with the bigger ports of the LS6 but with longer runners to keep the low to mid-range power levels while also flowing a ton up high. To really take advantage of the LS6 or TBSS intakes you need the better flowing 243/799 heads (or aftermarket) and a good cam shaft. Using either on a stock 4.8 or 5.3 with the lower flowing 706/862 heads would see minimal gains or possibly even a loss in performance. Lots of info about this stuff over at LS1Tech and PerformanceTrucks in case you want to read up more…

With all that being said, if all you’re looking for is additional hood clearance and max power isn’t a concern then an LS1 intake would probably work just fine for you and could be had pretty cheap. If you have more money to spend then an LS6 intake would be better and Dorman now makes a replacement that runs cheaper than what a lot of guys are asking for their used ones.

I know you said that you weren’t keen on the idea of shaving down your stock intake but that’d be the cheapest and easiest way to go since you wouldn’t have to worry about potential injector or throttle body issues. There’s a ton of how-to threads all over the net and if you screw it up you can always buy another one dirt cheap lol. Here’s a thread dedicated to shaved/smoothed truck intakes: http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...k-intakes.html

Here's a couple of pictures I borrowed from that thread for some inspiration:

[Andy4639]

This is mine in the truck but something like it may fit your needs. Just aluminum sheet metal bent and welded painted less than $200.00. Just for some idea what you could do.

[feller]

Those shaves don't look too bad, and that last cover looks really good, I was thinking of possibly a custom cover, I think my clearance issue is a matter of an inch or less, so either way would work for me, thanks for the link, I watched a video on YouTube on shaving but they didn't paint it I don't think, wasn't a huge fan of that one but those look pretty good, thanks guys

[68c10airstream]

Feller, If by chance you used dirty dingo adapter plates to use stock mounts consider using ls mounts (my suggestion would be f body 98-02 possibly) and make your own adapter brackets to establish your desired height. This may also require the same years f body oil pan (thinnest up front above the crossmember). This is exactly what i did to install my ls in my 68 c10. Oil pan almost touches the crossmember, and the weight is down low just where it should be. I've looked at a lot of pics of various styles production bolt on perches and mounts and all sit higher than my custom set-up. Nothing wrong with production parts, my objective was as low as possible. I would guess my set-up is 1-1 1/2" lower than the norm. Good luck