1986 Front Steering Knuckle Removal

[_mg]

I have never taken apart a front axle so these may be not the most intelligent questions. I have a 1986 front axle assembly I picked for my 1964 K10 and I figured since I have it out, I would replace stuff.

I have read the forum (a lot) about swapping the axle assembly for disc brakes and learned much so far as there are folks willing to teach and show pictures. In addition, I have bought a 1986 service manual to get the specific information.

However, I am at a point where I am not sure what to do next. I am trying to get the steering knuckle off and I have read that I can knock the knuckle loose by beating on the upper ball joint (I am replacing both ball joints).

I am merrily beating the upper ball joint but nothing moves. Upon closer inspection I notice the adjusting ring (300) in the yoke. Hmm, time to go back to the service manual. I review and I am not sure how to interpret the instructions.

1. Do I need to do something with the adjusting ring (300) before removing the knuckle?
2. How exactly does the adjusting ring work? Does it press down on the upper ball joint?
3. Any words of wisdom?

Thanks!

[obijuan]

it provides preload on the balljoint. soak that upper in penetrating oil for a while. also, if you can put pressure on the balljoint and whack the cast inner "C" it will help break it free. easier said than done to jig up constant presure.

['63GENIII]

I'm picking up a ball joint remover / installer tomorrow after work. Ill try and get a pic on here if I have time. It goes on with an impact and provides the "pressure" needed. A couple of whacks to the side of where the ball joint stud goes through the casting and they usually pop loose. I have had to pressure both the lower and upper ones to get them free. Might even be able to rent the tool where you are buying your parts.

[swamp rat]

As stated that adjusting ring is a preload nut, its threadded and you need to go buy the proper socket at an auto parts store to remove it and to install the new one, on install the bottom gete torqued, then the adjusting ring gets torqued. You should have loosened it before you started hammering on the ball joint. Now, as a rule of thumb, never hammer on a ball joint without first reversing the castle nut and installing it upside down to keep from mushrooming the threads.

[_mg]

Do I completely remove the adjusting ring? The manual, in the picture, says not to loosen it more than two threads?

If the ring pushes down on the upper all joint, do I need to remove it if the upper ball joint stem will be traveling down through it?

Still confused.

Thank you for the help.

['63GENIII]

I've never removed one when doing the ball joints. May have been doing it wrong all along though.

[obijuan]

New ball joint sets come with new adjusters. Remove them if you got new ones.

[enaberif]

You'll need a 4 point socket for the spindle and a 4 point socket for the adjustment.

Yes you need to remove the adjustment ring as the new ball joints come with it. I hope your also planning on doing ujoints and bearings/seals cause those generally need replacing while your in that far.

[_mg]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You'll need a 4 point socket for the spindle and a 4 point socket for the adjustment.

Yes you need to remove the adjustment ring as the new ball joints come with it. I hope your also planning on doing ujoints and bearings/seals cause those generally need replacing while your in that far.

So I should be able to completely remove the adjusting ring then remove the spindle knuckle from the yoke?

I have one of the axles out, replaced the u-joint and have new seals, bearings, etc. Plan to replace most of the components since this is nearly 30 years old and been through who knows what.

Thank you all for the advice.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by _mg

Do I completely remove the adjusting ring? The manual, in the picture, says not to loosen it more than two threads?

If the ring pushes down on the upper all joint, do I need to remove it if the upper ball joint stem will be traveling down through it?

Still confused.

Thank you for the help.

\

When you buggered the threads you created a problem for yourself, the ball joint does slip thru the adjusting ring or sleeve, so your going to have to figure out how to remove the mushroomed part before you continue. I don't know what tools you have to work with... Grinder? File? Hacksaw?

Here's a pretty poor picture i took with my cell on the computer screen, at the front of the section in the manual you should have a better picture, it shows the ball joints in more detail, look at the ball joints and the tapers, so you know the knuckle assy has to move downward and there are no internal threads in the sleeve.

Next question, do you have a pickle fork? In my PDF. service manual it states to use a wedge shaped tool, they are referring to a pickle fork, a large chisel may work as well, place it between the lower yoke and knuckle and smack it.


1) Remove the buggered threads. seriously make sure you can get the threaded area thru that ring before you continue.

2) See if you can loosen the adjusting sleeve, did you go buy the special sockets yet? you absolutely must have them during install to get proper preload, there is no way around this.. Ok if you cant loosen it don't sweat it for now.

3)Did you saturate it with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster? it needs to sit and let soak for a while.

4) Sometimes yes you can swing a BFH at the top and break the ball joints loose like you tried but always put the castle nut back on first. Place the pickle fork in between the lower knuckle and yoke (not the upper!) and smack on it with a 2 1/2 to 5 pound hammer until they separate, disregard the part in the manual that states to tap on it, ya need to give it a good smack, if that don't work you can get the ball joint press set up on it and break it free that way but don't just rely on the tension of the socket and breaker bar, tighten it and smack the yoke with a hammer

[_mg]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

\

When you buggered the threads you created a problem for yourself, the ball joint does slip thru the adjusting ring or sleeve, so your going to have to figure out how to remove the mushroomed part before you continue. I don't know what tools you have to work with... Grinder? File? Hacksaw?

Here's a pretty poor picture i took with my cell on the computer screen, at the front of the section in the manual you should have a better picture, it shows the ball joints in more detail, look at the ball joints and the tapers, so you know the knuckle assy has to move downward and there are no internal threads in the sleeve.

Next question, do you have a pickle fork? In my PDF. service manual it states to use a wedge shaped tool, they are referring to a pickle fork, a large chisel may work as well, place it between the lower yoke and knuckle and smack it.


1) Remove the buggered threads. seriously make sure you can get the threaded area thru that ring before you continue.

2) See if you can loosen the adjusting sleeve, did you go buy the special sockets yet? you absolutely must have them during install to get proper preload, there is no way around this.. Ok if you cant loosen it don't sweat it for now.

3)Did you saturate it with a penetrating oil like PB Blaster? it needs to sit and let soak for a while.

4) Sometimes yes you can swing a BFH at the top and break the ball joints loose like you tried but always put the castle nut back on first. Place the pickle fork in between the lower knuckle and yoke (not the upper!) and smack on it with a 2 1/2 to 5 pound hammer until they separate, disregard the part in the manual that states to tap on it, ya need to give it a good smack, if that don't work you can get the ball joint press set up on it and break it free that way but don't just rely on the tension of the socket and breaker bar, tighten it and smack the yoke with a hammer

Swamp rat, thank you for the guidance, exactly what I needed. I was reading too much into the service manual directions and relied on another post which described removing the knuckle but didn't mention the adjusting sleeve before using the BFH. Anyway, I am good now, much appreciated!

[_mg]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You'll need a 4 point socket for the spindle and a 4 point socket for the adjustment.

Yes you need to remove the adjustment ring as the new ball joints come with it. I hope your also planning on doing ujoints and bearings/seals cause those generally need replacing while your in that far.

Bought one today.

[_mg]

Originally Posted by obijuan

New ball joint sets come with new adjusters. Remove them if you got new ones.

Thank you obijuan.

[_mg]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

I'm picking up a ball joint remover / installer tomorrow after work. Ill try and get a pic on here if I have time. It goes on with an impact and provides the "pressure" needed. A couple of whacks to the side of where the ball joint stud goes through the casting and they usually pop loose. I have had to pressure both the lower and upper ones to get them free. Might even be able to rent the tool where you are buying your parts.

Thank you '63GENIII.

['63GENIII]

Not sure if you got the ball joints done yet so hopefully this isn't too late. I borrowed a ball joint remover / installer from my brother so I could get some pics for you. This one is made by ATD but Im sure there are others that make them. It makes doing ball joints way easier.

[_mg]

Originally Posted by '63GENIII

Not sure if you got the ball joints done yet so hopefully this isn't too late. I borrowed a ball joint remover / installer from my brother so I could get some pics for you. This one is made by ATD but Im sure there are others that make them. It makes doing ball joints way easier.

I get about 2-4 hours a week to do what I really want to do, so no, didn't change them yet. Maybe this weekend.

Thanks for the pics!