wheel lug nut torque

[4oldcars]

I read that if you over tighten lug nuts you can damage the rotor. Is this true? I've always just used an air gun. Am I over tightening? What is the correct torque for lug nuts (2wd)? I can't find it anywhere except for newer trucks.

[Bladeboy1998]

I have always used a torque wrench. When I was growing up my dad wouldn't use one, he replaced rotors about every 3 months! He still won't listen to me. I can go years without replacing mine.

[truckster]

It's a good idea to use a torque wrench. The Autozone vehicle information says my K5 Blazer torque should be 120 pounds, but I don't usually go over 95.

It's also important to torque the lug nuts correctly. I took a vehicle to a tire shop to have all four replaced, and I asked them to make sure they torque the lug nuts correctly. The manager said, "Of course. We use a torque wrench to check them all." Then I watched as a tire tech used an impact to run the lug nuts tight (probably somewhere north of 250 ft-lbs) and then clicked each one with a torque wrench.

[Bladeboy1998]

Originally Posted by truckster

It's a good idea to use a torque wrench. The Autozone vehicle information says my K5 Blazer torque should be 120 pounds, but I don't usually go over 95.

It's also important to torque the lug nuts correctly. I took a vehicle to a tire shop to have all four replaced, and I asked them to make sure they torque the lug nuts correctly. The manager said, "Of course. We use a torque wrench to check them all." Then I watched as a tire tech used an impact to run the lug nuts tight (probably somewhere north of 250 ft-lbs) and then clicked each one with a torque wrench.

I would flip **** on them for that! Lol I was always told 80-95 for most passenger vehicles. On my 2500hd I do 110 and still no problem

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by truckster

It's a good idea to use a torque wrench. The Autozone vehicle information says my K5 Blazer torque should be 120 pounds, but I don't usually go over 95.

It's also important to torque the lug nuts correctly. I took a vehicle to a tire shop to have all four replaced, and I asked them to make sure they torque the lug nuts correctly. The manager said, "Of course. We use a torque wrench to check them all." Then I watched as a tire tech used an impact to run the lug nuts tight (probably somewhere north of 250 ft-lbs) and then clicked each one with a torque wrench.

7/16" lug but should be 80ftlbs. Most tire shops use torque sticks on their impacts and run them down snug and the use a torque wrench for the final torque.

[Chulisohombre]

I just use my old cross lug wrench and torque evenly. Its supposed to be 95 ft lbs by the book.

[jayoldschool]

One more point: the threads are spec'd to be dry. No lube. No oil, no grease, no anti-seize, etc. Using any lube means you are over torquing by a substantial margin (actual compared to indicated).

[GMC-YA68]

Who lubes their lug nuts??

[Chulisohombre]

18 wheelers use anti seize on the stud to keep it from rusting on and some people try to do the same on regular vehicles.

[4oldcars]

Thanx to all. Lots of good info.

[hemi43]

I use anti-seize on all my lug nuts, and doing so will not over torque them. Lubricant will give a more accurate and consistent bolt stretch, and that's why head bolts/studs must be lubed before torquing. I torque all my 1/2-20 wheel nuts to 95-100 ft lbs. The anti-seize also helps in preventing galling and corrosion because wheel nuts are used in a haesh conditions especially up here in the snow belt.

[imjeff]

Buy decent rotors. I've never had a rotor warp from incorrect lug nut torque specs. Imagine the poor guy out there somewhere with a flat tire, no torque wrench and no cell service obsessing about whether he should change his tire or die a slow death waiting for a passing motorist with a torque wrench.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by imjeff

Buy decent rotors. I've never had a rotor warp from incorrect lug nut torque specs. Imagine the poor guy out there somewhere with a flat tire, no torque wrench and no cell service obsessing about whether he should change his tire or die a slow death waiting for a passing motorist with a torque wrench.

I never do anything more than just run them down to contact with my ½" impact.......then tighten by going in a cross pattern.......never had a warped rotor or any other kind of issue. I do spray with a little penetrating lube or WD40 just to prevent galling the threads.......

[jayoldschool]

Originally Posted by hemi43

I use anti-seize on all my lug nuts, and doing so will not over torque them. Lubricant will give a more accurate and consistent bolt stretch, and that's why head bolts/studs must be lubed before torquing. I torque all my 1/2-20 wheel nuts to 95-100 ft lbs. The anti-seize also helps in preventing galling and corrosion because wheel nuts are used in a haesh conditions especially up here in the snow belt.

That is all incorrect (except for the end where it makes the lug nuts easier to come off in the rust belt) Using anti-seize is causing you to seriously over torque your nuts. The fastener is specifically specified to be installed DRY. Using anti-seize, and torquing to spec, means that when the torque is indicated 100-ft-lbs, the actual torque is much higher (at least 25%). There is lots of actual quantifiable data out there if you wish to research it.

[GCncsuHD]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

One more point: the threads are spec'd to be dry. No lube. No oil, no grease, no anti-seize, etc. Using any lube means you are over torquing by a substantial margin (actual compared to indicated).

This is correct.

Originally Posted by hemi43

I use anti-seize on all my lug nuts, and doing so will not over torque them. Lubricant will give a more accurate and consistent bolt stretch, and that's why head bolts/studs must be lubed before torquing. I torque all my 1/2-20 wheel nuts to 95-100 ft lbs. The anti-seize also helps in preventing galling and corrosion because wheel nuts are used in a haesh conditions especially up here in the snow belt.

This is absolutely incorrect.

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

That is all incorrect (except for the end where it makes the lug nuts easier to come off in the rust belt) Using anti-seize is causing you to seriously over torque your nuts. The fastener is specifically specified to be installed DRY. Using anti-seize, and torquing to spec, means that when the torque is indicated 100-ft-lbs, the actual torque is much higher (at least 25%). There is lots of actual quantifiable data out there if you wish to research it.

As Jay mentioned, torque specs are always "clean and dry" specs unless otherwise noted. Lug nut torque specs are always dry. Lubing them with oil or anti seize increases the tension on the bolt 20-25% more on average than the dry torque spec. In the same way, rusty, galled threads will reduce the tension. Head bolts are typically noted with lubricated torque specs unlike lug nuts and most other common fasteners.

If you are lubricating your threads, which is not totally a bad idea in harh environments, you should be reducing your applied torque by roughly 20% to get the same tension on the bolt, which is truly what you are trying to attain, torque is just easier to measure.

[ClassicStyle]

I pretty much run 95-120 depending on the application. My cadillac specs at 155ft lbs and it doesn't have warped rotors...

I've never dealt with warped a rotor from lug nut torque. riding the brakes or a stuck caliper is another story.

[A1971Blazer]

Longest thread I've ever seen.........discussing nuts.......

[ClassicStyle]

It's pretty nutty...