heater core?

[Broken_down?]

wife tunrs the heater on and some , what looks to be moist warm air is coming outta the upper vent above the radio. I am wtf? I look over near her seat on passangers side and I got water/antifreeze leaking on my floor! sigh.. heater core taken crap near as I can figure till I pull it tomorrow. any ideas on new improved ones?

Also anyone intrested is replacing a flywheel? how much you charge. I live in Oroville CA, Only catch is I will be under there to so I can learn also.


Rich

[Hutch]

Broken_down?
When replacing the heater core you will need to remove the hood hinge and the inner fender to get at the hidden bolt on the very bottom of the cover for the core inside the hood.
There are ways around these steps, but trust me this will make it easier.
That is unless yours case already broken like a lot of them are.
When you are ready to re-install your hood hinge.
Mount it loose and then have someone push up on the hood while you tighten the bolts to keep it from riding too high at the cowl.
I have never done a flywheel on a Chevy but others that I have done only required a ring gear for the fix.

[Broken_down?]

mine is not broken. So the water that was dripping down from under the glovebox area is from the heater core right? is there a way to disable this or soemthing for now???

My flywheel is got a spot on it about 6 or 7 inches long where the teeth are ground down. and if it hits that spot I have to manually move the flywheel.

rich

[Pont]

Rich, you can bypass the heater core by not letting your engine coolant run through it. When mine went out, I just pulled the top hose and ran it into the engine where the bottom hose usually goes, basically sending the water from the engine right back into the engine so nothing runs through the heater core.

I recently replaced my heater as well and it's not that difficult compared to others that I had to replace. I did not have to remove the hood hinge but I did drop the inner fender out of the way so I could get access to all the bolts.

Flywheel replacement is not that bad either, if you don't mind wrestling a tranny out of the way. It is a manual trans, right? If not, you would be replacing a flexplate. Either way, the tranny has to come out, or at least back far enough to get in there and remove the flywheel bolts from the crank. I have also done this on mine without pulling the bellhousing. It's tight, but save alot of time by not removing what doesn't need to be removed.

PM me if you need any help or details, I'll walk you through it best I can.

Rob

[Broken_down?]

explaijn alittle bit more on where to by-pass? and I have auto. I was wonderings if it was possible to remove bolts from flex without moving tranny. I can manually turn the flex plate by hand so why could I not just remove bolts as I get them turned to me?

Rich

[lukecp]

Your engine has 2 heater hoses, one going from the intake to the heater core, and one going from the water pump to the heater core. Just loop them around and it will bypass your heater core. In other words, run one the hoses from the fitting on the intake to the fitting on the water pump. This will effecivetly disable the heater core, and the water will simply loop around.

Replacing the heater core is not a difficult job. I had to remove the hood on mine, and that was it. Remember to mark around the hood hinges so you get them back in the same place or your hood won't close right without some adjustment. I had a friend help me, mainly to remove the hood, and it took us less than an hour. Also, put some caulk on the heater box where it goes up against the firewall when you put it back on. The core cost me about $20 brand new, for my non AC truck.

[rodnok1]

you can get the bolts off the flexplate(auto) if you get lucky and the convertor will slide back a little so you can get it off the crank, for a manual you will have to move the trans back since it goes all the way to the crank. Either way it is easier in the long run to get the trans the hell out of the way.

[ksamps01]

I recently had to replace my flexplate also. What I did was put a long bolt on either side of the trans in place of the short ones. I pulled the driveshaft and unbolted the crossmember. After that I unbolted the converter and slid the trans back on the long bolts enough to get the to the flexplate bolts on the crank.

Hope this helps.

[Blue Beard]

Heater core is only about $25-35 and can be done easy in half a day.

[SWINGSAX68]

I got my heater core from autozone for $23. I just replace my core, started the night before by loosening all the fender bolts
got up at 9am and finished it off before work @ 12:30. Most of my time however was spent flushing out my radiator with water....I had lots of rusty water.....not good. SO tops maybe 2 1/2 hours to replace the heater core.

Bypass the core until you are ready to fix er up here is how it should be set up, the hoses may be crossed on my drawing but you get the idea:

[SWINGSAX68]

above was what it should look like....i was in a hurry would have gone into more detail or at least made the parts look like they should....i used a v8, but a i6 should be very similar.
Here is the bypass:

[SWINGSAX68]

I hope this visual aid may help...I know they help me sometimes...
-Roger

[tomsC10R]

Broken Down,
I'm sure you get the idea by now about the heater core. But...
I took the top hose off my heater core so I could drain what coolant was left in the core with the lower hose. You can kind of see the milk jug in the picture w/ the lower hose going into.

Here's a pic to go along with Swingsax's diagram

[71chevylongbed]

i replaced my heater core a couple months ago. i didn't remove my inner fender i just got a couple extensions and put a u-joint in the middle so i could get the socket on the nut

[angelsairman]

guess i took the more redneck approach when i changed my heater core, i cut a hole in the inner fender right inder the nut i needed to remove...HEHEHEHE

[tomsC10R]

LOL