Toddtheodd...dirt cheap 2 inch drop

[Tx Firefighter]

This picture is older than my great grandaddy's buckskin condom.

It's my old 72, now my neighbors. 2 inch lowering blocks, I made at work one day. The u bolts were 27 bucks from Ft Worth Champion Spring on Henderson street.

Total cost under 30 bucks and 2 inch drop.

Wham, bam, thank you maam!

[CG]

is that wood?

[Tx Firefighter]

Negative ghostrider, it's 2x3 inch .250 thick wall rectangular steel tubing. I just boxed the ends so it would look sexy.

[BIG ORANGE]

That a boy firefighter,been doing like that for years and have never had a compliant! keep it up!

[CG]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Negative ghostrider, it's 2x3 inch .250 thick wall rectangular steel tubing. I just boxed the ends so it would look sexy.

whew!!

[Tx Firefighter]

Originally Posted by CG

is that wood?

Hey, I'm no hack. There's no way I'd make wood lowering blocks. Wood is best used for motor mounts and crossmembers.

A pine 2x4 makes a hell of a trans crossmember.

[FirstGen]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Hey, I'm no hack. There's no way I'd make wood lowering blocks. Wood is best used for motor mounts and crossmembers.

A pine 2x4 makes a hell of a trans crossmember.

Damn good idea Jonny. I've been wondering what to do for a cross member for my 6 speed...
LOL!

[Tx Firefighter]

Who is Jonny?

[toddtheodd]

Now I understand better what you were saying.
Thank you for posting the pic. Looks fairly simple.
Todd

[68 Suburban]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

This picture is older than my great grandaddy's buckskin condom.

It's my old 72, now my neighbors. 2 inch lowering blocks, I made at work one day. The u bolts were 27 bucks from Ft Worth Champion Spring on Henderson street.

Total cost under 30 bucks and 2 inch drop.

Wham, bam, thank you maam!

it looks great, but arent there safety issues if the ubolt/ trailing arm combo hang below the rim, incase of a blow out? I can't really tell from that pictue, but it looks like it is ok

[Tx Firefighter]

68sub...yes, you are correct. Technically, you never want anything hanging below the wheel rim. That way, if a tire blew out, it won't dig into the pavement and bring you to a sudden halt.

I sometimes fudge a 1/2 inch or so on that though. Think about it, even if you completely deflate a tire, the wheel doesn't touch the ground. What I'm trying to say, is that even with a dead flat tire, a 1/2 below the scrub line still won't hit the ground.

The truck above has Early Classic shock relocators on it too though. They hang down a good bit lower than the stock lower shock mounts do. A good bit. Stock lower shock mounts, which is what todd will use, will be much higher. If he ground the u bolts off flush with the nuts too, he'd have a ton more clearance.

The truck above has 4 inch drop springs, 2 inch blocks, Early Classic shock mounts and panhard bar. Total 6 inch rear drop.

[FirstGen]

I just say Jonny alot...

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

Hey, I'm no hack. There's no way I'd make wood lowering blocks. Wood is best used for motor mounts and crossmembers.

A pine 2x4 makes a hell of a trans crossmember.

I beg to differ. Anyone using pine is a hack. If you're not using a hardwood (at least as hard as poplar or oak) you're going to get too much play and end up breaking something.

[N2TRUX]

I won't try to make light of scrub line concerns because they are serious. I will say that they aren't as crucial in the rear. If you drag a fixed part in the rear you aren't as prone to loose control as you would if it were in the front....