Steering shaft

[MikeB]

Looking to shorten this steering shaft a little in order to move the steering wheel a little closer to the dash.

What's the best way to proceed? Knock out the pins with a drift and cut a little off the upper shaft? And then re-drill?

Thanks.

***I just read an older thread about this. One guy said he only had to drill out the pins because his customer wanted to push the column as far forward as possible into the dash. Looks to me like you'd have to drill out the pins (or melt the plastic) to shorten the column even 1 inch..

[72c20customcamper]

I believe the pins are so that the column will collapse in an accident . Guys just heat up the shaft smack it with hammer and collapse it and call it done

[RustyPile]

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?

Originally Posted by RustyPile

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

OK, I think I understand that. But won't the inner shaft now be loose inside the outer shaft?

[un4gvn!]

I used heat on countless shafts. None rattled, or were loose. But you should know, if you have a column shift, this will NOT work. It will misalign the linkage.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I did away with the upper joint in the intermediate shaft where it connects to the upper column.. I replaced it with a Borgensen U-joint and needed to lengthen the shaft about 3/4".. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the process..

Here's what I did.. No need to heat or otherwise melt the plastic.. First, those aren't pins that go through the overlapping shafts. They're just an "entrance point" to inject the plastic.. The inner shaft doesn't have holes through it. It has 4 square depressions beneath the 4 holes in the outer shaft. These depressions capture the plastic and maintain a relatively snug slip fit between the 2 shafts.. Melt, or otherwise, remove the plastic in those depressions and the 2 shafts will rattle against each other. Drill through the 4 holes just enough to penetrate the outer shaft.. Clamp the outer shaft in a vice and push the inner shaft deeper into the outer shaft until you have the length you want..

^ This is the way it is . I just used basically the same process to set up a new Flaming River floor shift column and be able to slide the column forward using a U-joint .

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by MikeB

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?

Yes, it replaced the upper joint.. I don't like that big ol' ugly coupler thingie. Years ago in the '40s. '50s, Chrysler used that same design for u-joints on their driveshafts..

I didn't need to "secure" anything.. I didn't heat, melt, or remove the plastic in those 4 square depressions on the inner shaft, just drilled the plastic from those 4 holes. The fit remains snug and therefore no rattling, but still able to slip the shafts in order to remove and/or service the other components, i.e. rag joint, upper column, and steering box......

I have an aftermarket tilt column and the shaft is DD 1" diameter.. Give me a few minutes to search the Borgensen site and I'll post a link to the joint I used.. .

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by MikeB

So, you used a u-joint to replace the upper coupler, the one with rubber in it? And then you slid the smaller DD shaft inside the larger shaft until you got the proper length? Did you then secure the two shafts to keep them from rattling? And how about the flexibility needed to disengage the lower shaft from the rag joint coupler?



OK, I think I understand that. But won't the inner shaft now be loose inside the outer shaft?

Here's a link the joint I used..
https://www.borgeson.com/xcart/produ...1&cat=2&page=1

[Grumpy old man]

Here is the thread on Pickmups Flaming river floor shift tilt column and pic of the U-joint he supplies with it .

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=522483

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

But you should know, if you have a column shift, this will NOT work. It will misalign the linkage.

The truck has a column shift, but I also have this Lokar kit left over from another project. I'll get it sorted out before shortening the shaft.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by RustyPile

I didn't need to "secure" anything.. I didn't heat, melt, or remove the plastic in those 4 square depressions on the inner shaft, just drilled the plastic from those 4 holes. The fit remains snug and therefore no rattling, but still able to slip the shafts in order to remove and/or service the other components, i.e. rag joint, upper column, and steering box...

Thanks, that's very helpful. In fact, thanks to everyone for their comments! Now it's on to determine how to move the column forward.

[MikeB]

BTW, I'm getting a rebuilt steering gear box from AGR. Their shop is south of Ft. Worth, about 45 miles away from me. I didn't get the quick ratio, but did get the modern valving for better feel. They are also installing one of their high pressure pumps in my old reservoir can, as well as media blasting and powder coating the can.

I used one of their boxes a few years ago in a friend's truck, and was very impressed with it. I mean it literally felt more like my Mustang GT's steering than an OE truck box. I'm also impressed with their operation and customer support. Prices are not much higher than boxes rebuilt in China by A1 Cardone and others. In fact, their basic stock rebuild uses better parts and actually costs less!

On my way to Summit Racing to pick up a rag joint coupler.

[MikeB]

Drilled out the plastic, and was able to shorten the shaft by using penetrating oil and a BFH. Looks like I may have enough adjustment in my stock shift rod (column to trans), but have the Lokar kit if needed.

Next step is to move the column forward. I'm thinking even 1.5 inches will make a noticeable difference. Steering wheel is 15.5" inches OD from a 90s truck.

[Grumpy old man]

Here is a picture of the inner shaft once removed from the lower , You can see the " slots " where the plastic is injected to .

[Bigdav160]

All I've done is hit the shaft with a hammer. Done