1972 C20 front suspension removal?

[Iron Hauler]

I need to know what's all involved in removing the front cradle. I have the motor out and would.like to remove it all as a unit. Does the suspension need to be broken down to access all the bolts? Is it bolted and riveted? I can pull the front wrap but would like to.leave it on if possible.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Iron Hauler

I need to know what's all involved in removing the front cradle. I have the motor out and would.like to remove it all as a unit. Does the suspension need to be broken down to access all the bolts? Is it bolted and riveted? I can pull the front wrap but would like to.leave it on if possible.

It is all bolted in. Some of them are through bolts and some have weld nuts. It all comes out as one unit. Not bad to remove with the engine out. Be sure and spray all of the bolts/nuts with a good penetrating oil a couple of times. If you have a torch heat the nut and bolts before trying to remove them. It breaks the rust bond between the nut and bolt. 4 bolts in the sides and 3 in the bottom. Also disconnect brake lines and pitman arm from center link.

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It's an easy swap. Here's a pic of the holes that need modified. You have to enlarge the bottom one because there is a weld nut on the cross member. Some guys doing the swap have said that the bottom hole lined up OK.

LockDoc
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[67 twins]

No the suspension components do not need to come off first. No rivets all bolts. If I remember correctly it's seven per side hold the cradle to the frame. Four horizontal ones from the outside & 3 vertical ones from the bottom. Plus one more per side if the motor perches are still in place.
Disconnect the pitman arm & the idler arm and everything will come right out the bottom.

[67 twins]

Looks like Loc Doc is a faster typer than I am lol

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Looks like Loc Doc is a faster typer than I am lol

...I had to edit mine and add a little more info and I still forgot the idler arm, so it is a good thing you replied also...

LockDoc

[Keith Seymore]

That's how they were installed in the assembly plant.

The front suspension/crossmember was received as a unit. The frame was upside down to help hold the assembly in place while the horizontal bolts and vertical bolts were installed and tightened.

K

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

No the suspension components do not need to come off first. No rivets all bolts. If I remember correctly it's seven per side hold the cradle to the frame. Four horizontal ones from the outside & 3 vertical ones from the bottom. Plus one more per side if the motor perches are still in place.
Disconnect the pitman arm & the idler arm and everything will come right out the bottom.

Correct. 14bolts total to remove the entire cradle not including the motor-mount stanchions/towers.

[Iron Hauler]

Thanks for all the info guys. I could have just jumped in and started tearing things down but info like this really helps save time. It amazes me the wealth of information on this board from a group of guys so willing to help out.

[leftybass209]

I didn't see it mentioned, but it is worth noting that removing the springs with the weight of the motor in it for some people is slightly easier. A lot of people have problems with over the counter spring compressors not working or jamming up as well when they have the front end stripped off. Just thought it would be worth noting before you dropped the cradle and possibly can't get the springs out safely.

Best of luck!

[Mike Bradbury]

Yes Scotti brings a good point, if you plan on removing the springs, doing so while it is still on the truck is much safer. C20 springs are much more stout that C10 springs and standard spring comperssors may be over loaded and launch your entire X member across your garage floor taking part of your leg with it. If you are going to completely replace it and are going to scrap the entirety then the whole thing come out quite nicely.

Here is my Drop spindle/ drop spring C20 front ready to go back in.