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Old 12-27-2007, 01:21 PM   #1
mtburg71
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Ball joint replacement question

Looking to replace my front upper control arm ball joint which is riveted on from the factory. What did you guys use when you replaced it? If I order a new ball joint from LMC or any other supplier, will it come with the necessary bolts? Also, any easy method of removing coil springs without a spring compressor, something safe . Thanks for the help.

Mike
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Last edited by mtburg71; 12-27-2007 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Add question.
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:18 PM   #2
Fred T
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

I usually buy ball joints & such from my local auto parts store. And since I figure they need to last a long time, I get Moog. The new balls should have bolts and nuts with them. To remove the rivets grind, drill or chisel them. Also, the parts store should be able to loan you a pickle fork or spreader (preferred).

As for spring compressing, you don't have to remove the spring for ball joints. And on most 1/2 tons, they're not under much pressure. Put the truck on stands and use the floor jack to lower (or raise) the A frame. If you feel you need to, put a chain thru the spring for safety. Just don't position yourself where you will get hit if something goes wrong.
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Last edited by Fred T; 12-27-2007 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 12-27-2007, 02:24 PM   #3
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

yep........floor jack under the lower arm...pickle fork to get the ball joint apart, once it pops...lower it all. Use a grinder to grind out the rivets.
Parts store will have everything you need......remeber 3/4 ton and up will be be bigger than 1/2 ton ball joints. Make sure you have what you need. If its a nice truck you plan to keep.....Moog is the way to go but its going to cost 3 times as much...be prepared!!!
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Old 12-27-2007, 05:46 PM   #4
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

Thanks for all the input guys.

Mike
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Old 12-27-2007, 08:46 PM   #5
salazar44
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

Hey Mike.. Check out my blog. I have a tutorial of what I went through with my ball joints and spring removal. Maybe something on there can help you!

MY Blog Link
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:21 AM   #6
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

I'm in the process of a disc brake, lowering spindle swap and have done the passenger side. That spring was already pretty loose(with no load) with the a-arms hanging and just fell out for the most part when I got the upper ball joint loose. It's been replaced before - no rivets - and only took about 20-30 whacks with a pickle fort/small sledge.

The lower was a whole new ball game - so to speak..

Be ready for a work-out!
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:20 AM   #7
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

Im telling you! You need a BFH to wack at that pickle fork! Im about 230lbs and it was a PITA to loosen it up!
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:47 AM   #8
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

I hate pickle forks.
What I do is;
Undo the stud nut, and thread it back on a turn or two.
Support the wheel and apply downward pressure on the lower arm.
With some tension on it(a 2x4 makes a good lever), strike the spindle outside the tapered hole. 2 hammers form opposite sides works best, I like about a 4LB.
The shock of impact momentarily distorts the taper, and the stud drops free.
Undo the nut, and be glad you didn't ruin the bootie with your pickle fork.

Or go to Harbor freights website, and get the small and large tie rod/ball joint/pitman arm tools for about $16, they make it really quick.
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Old 12-28-2007, 10:47 AM   #9
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

[QUOTE=68K20 x Drill;2502890]I hate pickle forks.
What I do is;
Undo the stud nut, and thread it back on a turn or two.
Support the wheel and apply downward pressure on the lower arm.
With some tension on it(a 2x4 makes a good lever), strike the spindle outside the tapered hole. 2 hammers form opposite sides works best, I like about a 4LB.
The shock of impact momentarily distorts the taper, and the stud drops free.
Undo the nut, and be glad you didn't ruin the bootie with your pickle fork.

QUOTE]

And the above is the correct/quick way to do it.............unfortunatly it works about 50-70% of the time. I hate pickle forks too......but you better have one on standby because you will eventually need one
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1972 Chevrolet C-20 Suburban "Big Green"
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1966 C-10 2x4 short fleet 327 4 speed "Race Truck"
1952 Plymouth Cranbrook "Rican" (my grandfathers)
1931 Ford Model A Coupe "Black Beauty"
1930 Ford Model A truck "Club Cab" 4x4


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Old 12-28-2007, 07:25 PM   #10
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

mine popped off with mild persuasion
5 hit with a good right sized pickle for it and a mediam sized mallet mine was not rusty so yeah
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:33 PM   #11
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

Well right now I have beat on it about 20 times or so from the front and the rear with thee ole pickle fork and to no avail. I will be given it some more wacks tomorrow and also stop by Harbor Frieght tomorrow for some other tools and look for the pitman arm tools. Yippie, more wacking, LOL!
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Old 12-28-2007, 07:42 PM   #12
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

sometimes it takes more than other dont be afraid to give it hell its metal
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Old 12-28-2007, 08:11 PM   #13
mtburg71
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

Just need a bigger BFH, haha and some more weight behind, haha.
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Old 12-28-2007, 09:12 PM   #14
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

follow through lol
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Old 12-29-2007, 12:33 AM   #15
72freak
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Re: Ball joint replacement question

I have done it on over 100 vehicles..and when I did my 1968 C-30 I tried everything. Spring pressure exagerated with the floor jack, a lot of beating in all the commom areas....I even put a porta-power between the upper a lower nuts....It would NOT come apart...top or bottom. I broke the first pickle fork (made in China probably) under the top one. I finally sprayed them down with PB Blaster for 2 days, heated them just a little bit, floor jack for a little extra pressure, porta power between the 2, pickle fork and the big hammer and it finally popped. The other side did not require all that work.

The suspention/allignment guys use a fork on an air gun........but you mess up the boot!!!

I had to go with Moog because I could not find any 1 ton ball joints.....$79 each!!!!
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2004 Chevrolet Suburban C1500
2001 Chevrolet 2500HD Crew 6.0
1999 Harley Davidson Electra Glide
1972 Chevrolet C-20 Custom Camper "Dump Truck"
1972 Chevrolet C-20 Suburban "Big Green"
1969 Chevrolet C-50 Wedge Hauler "Leonidis"
1966 C-10 2x4 short fleet 327 4 speed "Race Truck"
1952 Plymouth Cranbrook "Rican" (my grandfathers)
1931 Ford Model A Coupe "Black Beauty"
1930 Ford Model A truck "Club Cab" 4x4


Rottenwood Garage and Speed Shop.....where everything must be racy!

It's not just a hobby..It's a LIFESTYLE!!!

Thanks for nothing Barrett-Jackson

You cant fix stupid or teach accountability!


Time wasters, looky Lous and tire kickers are everywhere!

Last edited by 72freak; 12-29-2007 at 12:36 AM.
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