this of converting to manual brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

dbmx66 · 08-16-2010, 11:10 PM

what all need to be done for this?

my engine might not produce enough vacuum for the booster brake so im trying to loose it.

thanks.

85Bowtie · 08-17-2010, 11:06 AM

Install a vacuum reserve canister. Much cheaper and works fine.

82swampthing · 08-17-2010, 11:47 AM

benoit454 · 08-17-2010, 11:52 AM

yea but aint there a chance the can could run out of vacuum like in around town stop and go traffic?

85Bowtie · 08-17-2010, 01:13 PM

It constantly replenishes itself. You can't run out as long as you're driving.

benoit454 · 08-17-2010, 02:22 PM

yea but like I said stop and go traffic or sittting still with the brake on I guess wouldn't bother it, but what about move a couple feet, stop and repeat?

I always figured a can was fine but my old man said it's run out after a few pumps. He said he used to make them out of big juice cans and after about 3 times they'd run out and pedal would be hard. He might not have had a one way valve in it though who knows it was way back when.

85Bowtie · 08-17-2010, 04:42 PM

If you are sitting in traffic like that, let off the brake, move up a few feet, hit the brake again, it probably will be somewhat hard. You'll still stop the vehicle though, the same as if you were using manual brakes anyway in this instance. The first time the throttle is pressed the excess vacuum is stored immediately into the canister. Either way, in traffic like that in a vehicle with a big cam, I would be more worried about fouling plugs than not having "power" brakes.

You could also look into getting some Rhoads Lifters. They will help restore some of the vacuum lost at idle in a big cam.

cableguy0 · 08-17-2010, 05:43 PM

Nothing is a perfect solution. The vacuum can works fine. You need to keep in mind that your not going to be sitting in a ton of traffic with your truck anyhow. Stop and go isnt a big deal. Its stopping from speed that you really need the booster. If you drive to fit the situation you wont have any issues. While truck you can run out of vacuum even with a can dont ride the brakes and you will be fine. I'm not even going to get into the rhoades lifter argument but they defeat the purpose of a big cam. They bleed off at idle and also at higher rpms. They arent a good idea for a performance application. Keep them on the shelf where they belong.
To eliminate the booster you will need a manual master cylinder. You wont have a chance at stopping the truck with the power master cylinder and no booster. Some of these trucks came factory with them so its an easy thing to get at a parts store. You can also go aftermarket willwood etc. I would just try with a vacuum can and see how it goes. You can always change it later.

Grande Rojo · 08-17-2010, 06:09 PM

I’ve got the same problem with my new big block. Very little vacuum and my brakes don’t work very well now. I asked the same question awhile back and got the same “advice” instead of an answer of anyone ever doing the swap. Don’t bother with the canister they’re only good for one time in my truck I know, I just wasted 75.00 on one. I will be doing the swap soon. I’ve looked all over the Internet with no luck. I do know that I’ll need master cylinder and rod that’s between petal and master.
If you get yours done soon post up some pictures and I’ll do the same

good luck!

benoit454 · 08-17-2010, 09:33 PM

Well around here we drive the truck everyday and yea you get into heavy traffic or stop and go every now and then that's why I asked and wanted to make sure. Manual brakes aint a problem we had them on a 76 and drove it everyday stop and go and it had a big cam.

cableguy0 · 08-17-2010, 09:58 PM

Grande are you sure you have the 1 way valve in the canister the right way?

spudz · 08-17-2010, 10:30 PM

i run a huge cam in my 388 in my regal street car. I have no vacuum. Had to run a pump. ifs its a huge cam, canister wont keep up. BUT you have a great option, just get a hydroboost off a diesel truck. problem fixxed...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...m%20pump&dds=1

dbmx66 · 08-17-2010, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grande Rojo

I’ve got the same problem with my new big block. Very little vacuum and my brakes don’t work very well now. I asked the same question awhile back and got the same “advice” instead of an answer of anyone ever doing the swap. Don’t bother with the canister they’re only good for one time in my truck I know, I just wasted 75.00 on one. I will be doing the swap soon. I’ve looked all over the Internet with no luck. I do know that I’ll need master cylinder and rod that’s between petal and master.
If you get yours done soon post up some pictures and I’ll do the same

good luck!

sounds good keep me updated

dbmx66 · 08-17-2010, 11:28 PM

thanks for everyones opinion. this is going to be more of a racer anyway. so im just gonna look into doing a manual brake swap.

dbmx66 · 08-17-2010, 11:39 PM

is there anything else i need to do the swap except for a manual master cylinder?

1985-GMC · 08-17-2010, 11:39 PM

+1 for the hydro!

team39763 · 09-02-2010, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dbmx66

is there anything else i need to do the swap except for a manual master cylinder?

I might be too late to this, but you might need the pedal/support assembly...I'm not 100% sure. I bought my setup from another member and he included the pedal and all, but I didn't compare it to the power brake assembly. My brakes seem to work just fine.

Chevrolet4x4s · 09-02-2010, 11:40 AM

I believe the ratio is different on the manual brakes to make it easier to press the pedal.
If you're running PS why not use hydraboost?

Shane

Redcap · 09-02-2010, 12:05 PM

Hydroboost is the way.

jjmorrse · 12-15-2010, 11:47 AM

I have not don a conversion on a truck, but I had a 71 camaro with front disks and manual brakes. I liked the feel, and it kept the wife from wanting to drive the car. The master cylinder will need changed. In the cars, if I remember, the brake pedal had two different pivot settings to give more leverage, or used different pedals. I would call master power or cpp to be sure about the pedal an to get info on the rod length needed to keep from brake drag. I like the simplification part of it, but I am a little obsessive, I dont have a window washer on my 89 sub daily driver, and keep thinking of lightening holes in the inner fenders.

D13 · 12-15-2010, 02:16 PM

My 77 has manual front disc brakes from the factory, as well a 3 on the tree and manual steering. This package seems to be unique to L6 powered vehicles. I would happily swap the manual disc brake pedal, clutch pedal, bracket, and master cylinder for a hydraulic clutch pedal bracket from 85 up. Then I would put the booster and M/C from my parts truck truck on it.

If you use a manual master remember these want the same displacement calipers as original.

My vote is for hydroboost if you street drive. Not that much more weight but a lot easier to stop, particlarly with a 6.2 or a big block.

If it's really a racer do you want my manual steering box too LOL? Better be belted in to turn it sitting still on concrete.

08-16-2010, 11:10 PM	#1
dbmx66 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: PA Posts: 883	this of converting to manual brakes what all need to be done for this? my engine might not produce enough vacuum for the booster brake so im trying to loose it. thanks.

08-17-2010, 11:06 AM	#2
85Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: TN Posts: 410	Re: this of converting to manual brakes Install a vacuum reserve canister. Much cheaper and works fine. __________________ '69 Dodge Charger R/T 440, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '68 Plymouth Road Runner 383, 727, 3.23 Sure Grip '89 Dodge Diplomat ex cop car 408, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '77 Dodge Monaco ex cop car 440, 727, 2.71 '79 Dodge 'Lil Red Express pickup 360, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '12 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392, M6, 3.92 '85 Chevrolet C-10 SWB 2wd 305, TH350, 2.73

08-17-2010, 11:47 AM	#3
82swampthing Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: taxachusetts Posts: 138	Re: this of converting to manual brakes __________________ R.I.P gm 1908-1986 1982 chevy k20,350,sm465,np205,10bolt and 14bolt s.f

08-17-2010, 11:52 AM	#4
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: this of converting to manual brakes yea but aint there a chance the can could run out of vacuum like in around town stop and go traffic? __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

08-17-2010, 01:13 PM	#5
85Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: TN Posts: 410	Re: this of converting to manual brakes It constantly replenishes itself. You can't run out as long as you're driving. __________________ '69 Dodge Charger R/T 440, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '68 Plymouth Road Runner 383, 727, 3.23 Sure Grip '89 Dodge Diplomat ex cop car 408, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '77 Dodge Monaco ex cop car 440, 727, 2.71 '79 Dodge 'Lil Red Express pickup 360, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '12 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392, M6, 3.92 '85 Chevrolet C-10 SWB 2wd 305, TH350, 2.73

08-17-2010, 02:22 PM	#6
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: this of converting to manual brakes yea but like I said stop and go traffic or sittting still with the brake on I guess wouldn't bother it, but what about move a couple feet, stop and repeat? I always figured a can was fine but my old man said it's run out after a few pumps. He said he used to make them out of big juice cans and after about 3 times they'd run out and pedal would be hard. He might not have had a one way valve in it though who knows it was way back when. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

08-17-2010, 04:42 PM	#7
85Bowtie Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: TN Posts: 410	Re: this of converting to manual brakes If you are sitting in traffic like that, let off the brake, move up a few feet, hit the brake again, it probably will be somewhat hard. You'll still stop the vehicle though, the same as if you were using manual brakes anyway in this instance. The first time the throttle is pressed the excess vacuum is stored immediately into the canister. Either way, in traffic like that in a vehicle with a big cam, I would be more worried about fouling plugs than not having "power" brakes. You could also look into getting some Rhoads Lifters. They will help restore some of the vacuum lost at idle in a big cam. __________________ '69 Dodge Charger R/T 440, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '68 Plymouth Road Runner 383, 727, 3.23 Sure Grip '89 Dodge Diplomat ex cop car 408, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '77 Dodge Monaco ex cop car 440, 727, 2.71 '79 Dodge 'Lil Red Express pickup 360, 727, 3.55 Sure Grip '12 Dodge Challenger SRT8 392, M6, 3.92 '85 Chevrolet C-10 SWB 2wd 305, TH350, 2.73

08-17-2010, 05:43 PM	#8
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	Re: this of converting to manual brakes Nothing is a perfect solution. The vacuum can works fine. You need to keep in mind that your not going to be sitting in a ton of traffic with your truck anyhow. Stop and go isnt a big deal. Its stopping from speed that you really need the booster. If you drive to fit the situation you wont have any issues. While truck you can run out of vacuum even with a can dont ride the brakes and you will be fine. I'm not even going to get into the rhoades lifter argument but they defeat the purpose of a big cam. They bleed off at idle and also at higher rpms. They arent a good idea for a performance application. Keep them on the shelf where they belong. To eliminate the booster you will need a manual master cylinder. You wont have a chance at stopping the truck with the power master cylinder and no booster. Some of these trucks came factory with them so its an easy thing to get at a parts store. You can also go aftermarket willwood etc. I would just try with a vacuum can and see how it goes. You can always change it later. __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

08-17-2010, 06:09 PM	#9
Grande Rojo paper or plastic? Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: SW Missouri Posts: 671	Re: this of converting to manual brakes I’ve got the same problem with my new big block. Very little vacuum and my brakes don’t work very well now. I asked the same question awhile back and got the same “advice” instead of an answer of anyone ever doing the swap. Don’t bother with the canister they’re only good for one time in my truck I know, I just wasted 75.00 on one. I will be doing the swap soon. I’ve looked all over the Internet with no luck. I do know that I’ll need master cylinder and rod that’s between petal and master. If you get yours done soon post up some pictures and I’ll do the same good luck! __________________ 1967 Chevy SWB 250 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=442157 1977 Chevy SWB 454 No More 454 getting 5.3 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=310518 1977 Stepside Truck of the month winner http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=135524 1965 Chevy C10 454 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=731372 1975 Dodge Power Wagon http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post7871388

08-17-2010, 09:33 PM	#10
benoit454 Chris Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Monaville, WV Posts: 3,737	Re: this of converting to manual brakes Well around here we drive the truck everyday and yea you get into heavy traffic or stop and go every now and then that's why I asked and wanted to make sure. Manual brakes aint a problem we had them on a 76 and drove it everyday stop and go and it had a big cam. __________________ Chris GIT R DONE!!!!!! Check out all our rides, http://www.cardomain.com/id/benwa454

08-17-2010, 09:58 PM	#11
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,950	Re: this of converting to manual brakes Grande are you sure you have the 1 way valve in the canister the right way? __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

08-17-2010, 10:30 PM	#12
spudz Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Branchville SC Posts: 1,647	Re: this of converting to manual brakes i run a huge cam in my 388 in my regal street car. I have no vacuum. Had to run a pump. ifs its a huge cam, canister wont keep up. BUT you have a great option, just get a hydroboost off a diesel truck. problem fixxed... http://www.summitracing.com/search/?...m%20pump&dds=1 __________________ 2004 z71, 96 z71 on 38s, 88 Chevy k5 blazer, 4in lift. 84 swb project, 82 SWB project , 84 chevy 4x4 lwb project, 88 Jimmy beater/highschool ride. 79 c30. 99 tahoe 4x4 project. and a bunch of parts trucks..

08-17-2010, 11:28 PM	#14
dbmx66 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: PA Posts: 883	Re: this of converting to manual brakes thanks for everyones opinion. this is going to be more of a racer anyway. so im just gonna look into doing a manual brake swap.

08-17-2010, 11:39 PM	#15
dbmx66 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: PA Posts: 883	Re: this of converting to manual brakes is there anything else i need to do the swap except for a manual master cylinder?

08-17-2010, 11:39 PM	#16
1985-GMC Chevy Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Canyon Lake Texas Posts: 2,024	Re: this of converting to manual brakes +1 for the hydro! __________________ Tony 1985 GMC K2500 restoration Project: Rust, White & Blue 1989 Chevy R3500 CC Cummins & 4X4 swap some day... 1989 Burb (D60, 14BFF, 12V, NV4500, NP205, 37" tires in progress)



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09-02-2010, 11:40 AM	#18
Chevrolet4x4s Registered User Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: WV Posts: 227	Re: this of converting to manual brakes I believe the ratio is different on the manual brakes to make it easier to press the pedal. If you're running PS why not use hydraboost? Shane __________________ 1993 K1500 350 5 speed 1985 K10 Silverado Vortec 406 5 speed (in body shop) "I been drivin' this '85 pickup truck Them buddies of mine call it a bucket of rust She's a little beat up but she still runs like the wind Yeah, kinda like me I been banged and bruisedBeen around the block a time or two But I'm runnin' like new goin' places I never been No, I ain't broke I'm just broken in" 1963 Dodge Townwagon(its amazng what 30 years and zero miles will do to a vehicle ) Member#20327

09-02-2010, 12:05 PM	#19
Redcap Registered User Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lewis County, WA Posts: 1,523	Re: this of converting to manual brakes Hydroboost is the way.

12-15-2010, 11:47 AM	#20
jjmorrse Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: east tx Posts: 128	Re: this of converting to manual brakes I have not don a conversion on a truck, but I had a 71 camaro with front disks and manual brakes. I liked the feel, and it kept the wife from wanting to drive the car. The master cylinder will need changed. In the cars, if I remember, the brake pedal had two different pivot settings to give more leverage, or used different pedals. I would call master power or cpp to be sure about the pedal an to get info on the rod length needed to keep from brake drag. I like the simplification part of it, but I am a little obsessive, I dont have a window washer on my 89 sub daily driver, and keep thinking of lightening holes in the inner fenders. __________________ jjmorrse 86 C30 crewcab big dooley. 454- 400

12-15-2010, 02:16 PM	#21
D13 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Memphis MI Posts: 1,851	Re: this of converting to manual brakes My 77 has manual front disc brakes from the factory, as well a 3 on the tree and manual steering. This package seems to be unique to L6 powered vehicles. I would happily swap the manual disc brake pedal, clutch pedal, bracket, and master cylinder for a hydraulic clutch pedal bracket from 85 up. Then I would put the booster and M/C from my parts truck truck on it. If you use a manual master remember these want the same displacement calipers as original. My vote is for hydroboost if you street drive. Not that much more weight but a lot easier to stop, particlarly with a 6.2 or a big block. If it's really a racer do you want my manual steering box too LOL? Better be belted in to turn it sitting still on concrete. __________________ 1987 2 ton 1982 250/TH350 beater in progress Dad's 1981 3/4 L6 3 on tree posi and no options, awaiting restoration or scrapping Plus a mess o' tractors Last edited by D13; 12-15-2010 at 02:54 PM.

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