235 Starter Solenoid-not always engaging flywheel

[duwem]

On my 58-62 vintage 235 engine with 12 volt starter, the starter always spins when I hit the key, but only engages with the flywheel half the time.

The guy I bought it from said there was something that would be worn out in the starter shift solenoid (part that kicks the gear on the starter into the flywheel ring gear) that you can just flip around and it should fix it.

Is there a part I can flip and if not what should I replace to get it to kick in every time?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by duwem

On my 58-62 vintage 235 engine with 12 volt starter, the starter always spins when I hit the key, but only engages with the flywheel half the time.

The guy I bought it from said there was something that would be worn out in the starter shift solenoid (part that kicks the gear on the starter into the flywheel ring gear) that you can just flip around and it should fix it.

Is there a part I can flip and if not what should I replace to get it to kick in every time?

Its kind of a yes and no, There is a copper disc that contacts the battery pole and the starter pole inside the solenoid. This some times gets carboned up from the electrical arcing. You sometimes can in a pinch flip the disc but you should actually change the solenoid and be done with it. The other issue is has it damaged the starter gear on the flywheel with the intermitant operation, it usually does. If it has the flywheel has to come out and have the starter ring gear replaced. When you do this I would replace the starter drive gear along with it so you have good mating gear mesh.

Take out the starter and rotate the flywheel and look at the teeth as you turn it. They can be a little chipped on the very end but if it goes more that say 25% of the gear then you should replace it or in a pinch you can flip the ring gear having the good side of the teeth facing the starter.

[duwem]

Thanks for the info.

I will look at the ring gear teeth.

On the copper disk inside the solenoid. I see there are 2 skrews that hold the plastic end where the terminals are. I removed those screws and attempted to pull that cap off but it only moved a little bit, I didnt want to pull too hard because it seemed like I was pulling on wires. Do I just keep pulling to get it off?

Any idea what a new solenoid costs?


Thanks!

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by duwem

Thanks for the info.

I will look at the ring gear teeth.

On the copper disk inside the solenoid. I see there are 2 skrews that hold the plastic end where the terminals are. I removed those screws and attempted to pull that cap off but it only moved a little bit, I didnt want to pull too hard because it seemed like I was pulling on wires. Do I just keep pulling to get it off?

Any idea what a new solenoid costs?


Thanks!

The solenoids should cost about $25

There are one or two studs that sticks out of the back of the cover each has a nut that needs to come off, A wire may be attached to one or both, once the studs are loose in the cover it should slide off then, There are wires on the inside attached to each stud. One is the wire that excites the coil winding and makes the starter engage. The other if its there usualy goes to the coil to give full 12 volts while starting.

[duwem]

Got it appart and did clean up the pitting, but I broke the connection where the one stud attached to the coil wire and couldnt get it to sodder back together for nothing.

Guess I will be buying a new one. I checked all the truck catalogs and didnt see them listed in there. Would I have to go to an auto parts store and ask for one?

[OrrieG]

looks like NAPA has a bunch online or in the stores

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...+50014+2014099

you do NOT always have to jump to the aftermarket guys. Remember these cars and trucks are still the DD in Cuba and lots of other foreign countries. I have found that NAPA carries a lot of the replacement parts for much less than aftermarket sources.

[duwem]

Mine Looks like this:

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...50014+2014099#

This one is $80, all others I found for other years are $15....YEKS

This starter is only $70.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...+50014+2014099

[dwcsr]

Rockauto has the one you linked yo for 27.00. The starter you pictured is for a V8 bell housing

[duwem]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Rockauto has the one you linked yo for 27.00. The starter you pictured is for a V8 bell housing

Thanks! Too bad they tack on 11 bucks for shipping! I guess its going to be about $45 no matter how you slice it.

Thanks though for all the help.

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Has no one checked the starter ring for worn or broken teeth? I have had to replace the ring in the past when the starter teeth would not connect the ring.

[duwem]

Well I ordered the one from Rock Auto because it was the best price I could find. They were doing a warehouse reduction and that was the last one before the price went up to like $51.

Wellllll, it doesnt bolt up. Holes are closer together and the therminals aren't the same. Terminals are not a super big deal, will need to come up with something between it and the starter.

Both holes not working sucks. Anyone know what I need? Guess it wasn't what I ordered. Now I'm out on shipping and I dont know if rock auto does returns, if so thats likely even more shipping money.

Thinking of cutting the holes into slots so they are wide enough then tack welding washers on to position the bolts so the solenoid cant slide back and forth. Worried I might fry something inside if I get it too hot though!

Oh, and the original is shot, I broke a wire off inside while trying to clean the arching pitts off the disk and studs....

[BIG CHEVY 3600]

Yeah, it was the wrong part but it was on sale... *****, *****,*****. lol
Rock Auto will accept returns. Be sure to save the box it came in. I don't know if there is a Rock Auto close to where you are in WI but Dallas has a warehouse and I just drop off what I want to return and they credit my credit card. Call and find out what you need to do to effect a product return.

[duwem]

Anyone know what the correct year or PN for the one I need is?

[duwem]

This is more than likely the one I need since the feet stick out more.


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/2...-part-s83.html

BUT, the picutre is only so good. At least if I go through advanced I dont need to pay shipping twice to get it and ship it back if its wrong. I will be giving rockauto $25 for that mess up (shipping to me and back)...live and learn.

[OrrieG]

When I got my truck in 1976 it had the stock starter set up. When it went bad it was cheaper to convert to a standard sbc solinoid setup. If I remember correctly I had to change the starter nose and did some rewiring for the push button. Something you might consider unless absolute originality is your goal.

[duwem]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

When I got my truck in 1976 it had the stock starter set up. When it went bad it was cheaper to convert to a standard sbc solinoid setup. If I remember correctly I had to change the starter nose and did some rewiring for the push button. Something you might consider unless absolute originality is your goal.

Good thought. That must be what all the $20 solenoids I see are for.

I'm not planning on keeping it original, but do want a quick and painless solution, so I will likely just return the one I got and try again to get the right one. By the time I tear everything apart and put on v-8 stuff it will probably cost the same and will require more parts sourcing etc...

Thanks for the idea though.

[duwem]

I'm going to use the solenoid I got off rockauto.

I already modified the feet to work.

There are 4 terminals, I know what the the little ones are for, but when it comes to the big ones, there is a bigger one on top and a slightly smaller one on the bottom. Which one is for the battery cable and which one goes to the starter motor?

[duwem]

Got it all wired up and running again.

Ring gear teeth are pretty rounded off, so that is probably why it doesnt engage. Hoping adjusting the solenoid will help a little. Dont plan to keep this engine in the truck for more than a few years.