Help - never saw this axle end before

[CCCC]

1976 GMC 6500 big dude - my aerial truckwith a LOT of ballast added underside (heavy) - just need to remove rear axle to get the hub off to R&R a wheel brake cylinder.

Surprise (to me) - the axle does not have a flange the same size as the end of the hub with 8 connecting bolts - you know - remove the bolts and out comes the axle. The outside end/flange of the axle has teeth all the way around the perimeter that mesh with grooves in the inside of the end of the hub - obviously multi driving points for axle to hub. There is a threaded hole in the center of the axle end flange - looks like maybe 7/16 fine.

Please check my thinking. I will screw appropriate bolt into the center hole, tap the bolt head outward or use a slap hammer on the bolt head to pull the axle flange teeth away from the grooves in the hub - and the axle will simply pull out as does the other type. Is this good? Any cautions there?

May I assume that everything after that is the normal setup to hold the hub onto its spindle (bearing/thrust washer/nut/thrust washer/adjusting nut/locking washer/ etc.). Any surprises coming there?

Although I have blocks under the diff and axle housing on this thing, need to get it fixed and back on the ground proper. So, any early help will be appreciated. C'mon - share your knowledge/experience before I mess something up.

Thanks.

[greywuuf]

Sounds like the way front axles are fitted on all wheel drive trucks......I can't say as I have experienced that on a rear axle.....provided it is a floating axle it sounds like it will come apart like you suggested

[CCCC]

Thanks greywuuf - just the info and encouragement I needed. 1/2" fine thread bolt into that hole and pulled the axle teeth from the hub with one hand, and then out. Nicely engineered little deal - well, not little - that axle shaft is hefty. Guts come off the spindle in the AM and then the hub - it looks HEAVY so maybe I'd better have a helper on hand. Thanks again.

[jumpsoffrock]

Yeah, if the hub is like my '67 C50...which the setup sounds the same...hub will weight 80+lbs.

[Bob B.]

That hub was common on may GM and Eaton built axles. You have the right idea about how to take it apart. Sometimes you don't even need a slide hammer, just thread a screw into the threaded hole and you can wiggle the shaft out.

[CCCC]

Thanks jumpsoffrock and Bob B. It all came off as normal and, yes, that hub is heavy. Should be a real joy reaching under there to put it back on my oldself.

The surpise is that I have a bad axle seal (real mess in there) and need to get a replacement. Never have chased down a seal for a heavy setup like this and there is no number on the outer face of this seal. I went to some Eaton specs and found their number for this seal - should that Eaton spec number enable me to get one.

I live remote - nearest Napa/Carquest/etc. are 75 miles away and do not carry anything this big - and seem disinterested. Know of a good mail-order or online source?

Thx for any info.

[Bob B.]

A truck parts place ought to be able to change that Eaton number over to an BCA/CR/SKF number. NAPA should be able to as well, but it depends on the counterman!

[_Ogre]

Should be a real joy reaching under there to put it back on my oldself.

just a fyi...
when i was in high school i worked at the school bus shop and did lots of dual wheel rearend repair

next time you pull a big rear hub, leave the wheels on the hub and pull the axle
use a bottle jack to raise the wheels enough to slide a piece of 2'x5' smooth tin under the wheels
pour some oil on the tin in the center
remove the nuts and outer bearing and lower the jack just enough to slide the hub assembly out
adjust the bottle jack right to where there is no pressure down or up

used this method many times to service brakes, wheel bearings or pull a spring