Bag'd 53 stock frame,1pc driveshaft,2pc? Help

[Fiftee3]

So I am moving along slowly on build. Never done this before, learning as I go.
Coming along. Never considered driveshaft would hit aired out!
So, should I cut crossmember, don't really want to, and modify parking brake, and possibly have to tunnel rear cab (gas tank in cab)?
Or, should I have a 2 piece built, mount carrier on crossmember, almost centered, and go that route?
I did multiple searches here but not much found.
PICTURES would be sooo helpful.
I am only running a 235...thanks in advance...

[mr48chev]

I'm not a bag fan as I think being "laid out" or "aired out" is one of the silliest car fads that ever existed. Why is making your truck look like it's broken or sunk in the mud cool?

Other than that I'd say once you have it figured out how much of a notch you need in the rear to make it sit on the ground and not hit how much room do you have for a one piece drive shaft and can you put a loop on the cross member much like a notch over the axle?.

Tons of 58/64 Chevy cars run a two piece drive shaft including most of those with hydraulics that get a bit wild at times. As long as you don't throw a lot of horsepower at one they usually do pretty well. I've got two trucks in the driveway with two piece shafts. both have stock suspension but I have never had reliability issues with them.

If you are up to the fabricating you could fab up a new crossmeber that cleared the driveshaft and looked trick in the process.

[1project2many]

Why is making your truck look like it's broken or sunk in the mud cool?

I agree. But I also remember my father saying he just couldn't understand why I wanted to put 15" wheels under my '79 Monte and raise the car. But that's what we did back then...

[47 Fasttoys]

Mr. 48, I think it's kinda like the chopped top thing. I can't for the life on me understand why someone would cut up a beautiful cab design. I like the slammed truck look as long as it's done right and still usable. Now the chopped thing? Only if your altitude impaired. LOL "Look boss the plane ,the plane"
Rob

[Fiftee3]

Any help here? I want to get cab back on before it snows. Any pics, ideas, appreciate...

[Advanced Design]

Phil, have you been able to determine how much notch you need? I checked by supporting frame on jack stands at rear, then raising the rear differential up to the bump stops. Connecting the pinion to the trans output shaft with a string helped demonstrate how much notch was needed.

I was able to get by with a c notch in the crossmember.

[dsraven]

best thing to do is remove snubbers, slowly set the suspension at full down while checking for interference. remember to leave some extra room to allow for engine and trans movement during accel and decel and also flex of the frame. you will soon find out if you will have interference issues.

[LEEVON]

I just used a one-piece and did something similar to Advanced Design. There are some pics in my build thread.

[dsraven]

take a good look at the cross member at the cutaway part. by the pic it looks like it is no stronger than a single piece of sheet metal at that spot. it is a good idea to reinforce above the member by at least as much as was taken out below the member. otherwise the strength is taken away. there is strength fore to aft but not much up and down. do you have room to re-invent the cross member above the cut or possibly move the cross member for or aft to allow the clearances required?

[Jemezcrusher]

Originally Posted by dsraven

take a good look at the cross member at the cutaway part. by the pic it looks like it is no stronger than a single piece of sheet metal at that spot. it is a good idea to reinforce above the member by at least as much as was taken out below the member. otherwise the strength is taken away. there is strength fore to aft but not much up and down. do you have room to re-invent the cross member above the cut or possibly move the cross member for or aft to allow the clearances required?

Would not be that hard to fashion a "loop" that goes around the drive shaft. Even a bolt on affair. Would beef up the crossmember and act as a safety loop in case you spit the drive shaft

[dsraven]

sorry, my apologies on the last comment I posted. it was not even your frame in the pic I was talking about. gotta read the "posted by" better next time

did you get a work around figured out for the driveshaft issue?

[dsraven]

you are right, pics would be sooo helpful for the rest of us trying to give suggestions. I assume you have an open drive line and no torque tube?

[joedoh]

most bagged trucks like a one piece for pinion angle change concerns but need a two piece because of cab floor concerns at full drop. measure the space you have by running a straight dowel or something from the trans to the rear pinion and see if you will have floor interference problems.

Originally Posted by dsraven

take a good look at the cross member at the cutaway part. by the pic it looks like it is no stronger than a single piece of sheet metal at that spot. it is a good idea to reinforce above the member by at least as much as was taken out below the member. otherwise the strength is taken away. there is strength fore to aft but not much up and down. do you have room to re-invent the cross member above the cut or possibly move the cross member for or aft to allow the clearances required?

are we looking at the same picture? it looks like he cut the bottom of the crossmember and plated it back in with a piece of plate, which is the same method as a c notch in the frame rails, and no where near the stress. I doubt you could stand on it and deflect even a mm.

street frames arent meant to be rigid, they are made to flex and deflect. rigidly built street frames (thick wall 2x4 with thick wall 2x4 welded crossmembers) are super rough on suspension bushings and attachment points because all the flex and deflection has to go somewhere, and its usually found at the weakest point. crossmembers are made to let the frame twist torsionally (front left corner up, rear right corner down) without allowing the frame to diamond (one rail get ahead of the other). grab a ladder by one end and have a buddy grab the other. you will be able to twist one side up while holding the other side down, but you will never be able to push one side closer to your buddy and diamond the ladder.

[dsraven]

you're probably right on the plated thing, just cant see it well on my end. better get my glasses.
good explanation, joedoh.
I would try the ladder thing except I don't have any friends to hold up the other end, haha.
like I said before, some pics of the actual truck in question would sure be handy so we can all see what fiftee3 is working on.

[Advanced Design]

Just trying to help Phil with another suggestion by sharing how I addressed a similar issue on my Suburban build.

There isn't much room above the crossmember as you encounter the cab floor or body mount right there. So it would be difficult to provide additional support by reinforcing above.

Here is another look of the plate I cut from a large diameter pipe to function as a c notch. Joedoh is right regarding lack of deflection... I stand on it and it doesn't move.

[Fiftee3]

Rob, i love that COE every time I see you post!
and as far as silliest fads, I do regret bell bottoms!
Leevon, thanks for posting. Your build is terrific!
Doug, thanks for photos. That helped ALOT! Have some ideas.
Joedoh, yes, I saw a picture that I cant find now, but it was a blue AD and the rear of the cab had a small notch.
Anyway, dsraven asked for pics. Really wont help, cause the pictures provided have helped already. At full air out, I ran trimmer line from trans to rear.
Have 1/2" clearance on trans side, almost touching on rear side. Driveshaft is 3.5", so I would have to notch 1.75 at minimum and have room on top.
My friend is building a 53 also and will call me tomorrow with how much room is on top of cross member. Again, thanks to all. These forums are a must have for these kinds of things! I'll update soon...here's some pics anyway...



Aired out

[dsraven]

hey advanceddesign, my apologies, the last pic is what I was commenting on. looked thin there but looks like even a fattie like me could stand on it, haha. hopefully no hard feelings man.

[Advanced Design]

Originally Posted by dsraven

hey advanceddesign, my apologies, the last pic is what I was commenting on. looked thin there but looks like even a fattie like me could stand on it, haha. hopefully no hard feelings man.

Goodness no, not at all. Pics don't show the c plate size or dimensions very well. The plate is about 6 inches across.


Phil, with that much drop I don't think a small notch like mine will be enough for your truck. Test it out like suggested above to see what you will need.

[Fiftee3]

Doug,
How did you run your e-brake after removing the original brace?

[Advanced Design]

Phil,
E brake is not done though it will be cables for the apply.

[Fiftee3]

I so appreciate the input and photos. Out of a need to get my cab out of the driveway before it snows, and the fact that tunneling my cab may be difficult for me, I decided to go with the 2 piece shaft.
Just got it Thursday. Am very pleased. If it works as good as it looks, I'll be a super happy camper. I'll post pics when it's in.
I also thought I needed to much of a drop to tunnel the center crossmember like the pics showed. I also wanted to keep original e brake. I'm almost back on the road!!!

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would try the ladder thing except I don't have any friends to hold up the other end, haha.

hey man, if I am ever though calgary I will hold the ladder for you!

[Fiftee3]

I know most here would not have gone this route, here's some photos of how it turned out. You never know, it might help another member...

[Fiftee3]

shaft uses a bolt on center bearing, same as in the Harley Davidson pickup truck.
These guys were terrific. Answered all/many questions before I even dropped a dime.
Made two other calls to very famous driveshaft shops and got a machine. No thanks...

[joedoh]

looks awesome!