Quality hose clamps

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I'm restoring a 71 BBC to "factory". Just wondering what water clamps you guys like, quality parts and that.

Looking at these. https://www.zip-corvette.com/71-74-4...clamp-kit.html

[Grumpy old man]

Maybe these ,

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...8/applications

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-ORIGINA...frcectupt=true

[Steeveedee]

Tower clamps like GoM posted were standard. Worm gear clamps were optional (thus on the SPID if so equipped from the factory).

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

You guys have luck with tower clamps? I was told by someone they aren't worth a darn, perhaps because they were replacements.

Interesting, worm gear on a SPID

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

Tower clamps like GoM posted were standard. Worm gear clamps were optional (thus on the SPID if so equipped from the factory).

I would love to see that, just from a curiosity standpoint. I didn't even know they were available from the factory.

[rpmerf]

Looks like it would be:

KYT 13844 C HOSE CLAMPS, RADIATOR, CONSTANT TORQUE 891010 E T T A

https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...GM_master_list

[Grumpy old man]

Putting them on was easy ...Removing or just loosening they was a real PITA , I've had to beat on the "bolt" to get them loose and if I had any other type clamp around I'd toss them in the garbage . you had to have the perfect fit regular screw driver . :smoke The original Wittek went out of business .Marti auto works(Ferd parts) purchased the original machines to make the clamps with the Wittek name stamped on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EmkxuOrdA4


http://www.martiauto.com/itemselecti...lecteditem=yes

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Putting them on was easy ...Removing or just loosening they was a real PITA , I've had to beat on the "bolt" to get them loose and if I had any other type clamp around I'd toss them in the garbage . you had to have the perfect fit regular screw driver . :smoke The original Wittek went out of business .Marti auto works(Ferd parts) purchased the original machines to make the clamps with the Wittek name stamped on

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3EmkxuOrdA4


http://www.martiauto.com/itemselecti...lecteditem=yes

I don't think I'll be getting repop "Wittek" clamps anytime soon.

To add to the worm-drive option, this website marks these as "correct". I may use them. https://www.zip-corvette.com/70-82-s...p-correct.html

[FirstOwner69]

As mentioned above, tower clamps were original, and they are a pain to deal with. I removed mine shortly after I bought my truck and replaced them with worm clamps. However, as seen in this picture, they just look right (even with an incorrect engine). I haven't had a leakage problem.

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

I don't think I'll be getting repop "Wittek" clamps anytime soon.

To add to the worm-drive option, this website marks these as "correct". I may use them. https://www.zip-corvette.com/70-82-s...p-correct.html

They may be correct for Vettes, but trucks usually lagged behind Vettes and cars. It's your choice.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by truckster

I would love to see that, just from a curiosity standpoint. I didn't even know they were available from the factory.

I was surprised to see it as well. I saw it in the SPID thread. Since it is in a picture of an SPID, I can't search on it. I think it was a government truck. Anybody have one they can show? There is a thread somewhere (or maybe a website) that has all the possible options.

[Grumpy old man]

Well... Now that this thread made me do a little research on hose clamps here it is . I've noticed the local auto parts clamps seemed thinner and well ,Junk as compared to what we used to have available . So Now I found Murray made in the USA and sold thru ...Loews , Yep Loews .


https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/hea...series-clamps/


https://www.murraycorp.com/

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Murray-10-P...Clamp/50069657

[truckster]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Well... Now that this thread made me do a little research on hose clamps here it is . I've noticed the local auto parts clamps seemed thinner and well ,Junk as compared to what we used to have available . So Now I found Murray made in the USA and sold thru ...Loews , Yep Loews.

I've been buying hose clamps from Lowes for a long time. Not only are they good quality, they're cheaper than at the auto parts stores.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Well... Now that this thread made me do a little research on hose clamps here it is . I've noticed the local auto parts clamps seemed thinner and well ,Junk as compared to what we used to have available . So Now I found Murray made in the USA and sold thru ...Loews , Yep Loews .


https://www.murraycorp.com/clamp/hea...series-clamps/


https://www.murraycorp.com/

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Murray-10-P...Clamp/50069657

Decisions decisions. These are nice Grumps: https://www.murraycorp.com/products/clamps/heavy-duty/

[mrein3]

When I was a younger curmudgeon I paid the last few years of my way through college working at a local repair shop.

When my boss was training me in he showed me how to remove a tower clamp. With a side cutter you clip a band on one side of the "tower" then with a pliers you pull the remains off the hose. Then with clamp still in pliers walk over to the trash can and dispose of the worthless clamp.

A worm style clamp was then used when reassembling.

Thanks for the tip on the hose clamps at Lowe's. I too have been unhappy with the crappy hose clamps in most retail locations.

[Stocker]

I've had worm gear clamps loosen up sometimes and need a little re-tightening. No such problem with single-wire or better yet, double-wire clamps like these. They may not look right but they always hold snug with no leaks.

[72Cheyenne454]

I tried the tower clamps on a 72 K20 I restored. Had terrible luck with them. Never could get the clamps to seal, so trashed them and installed worm clamps. Not the look I wanted, but solved the leaks.

[p0508]

T bolts if you don't care about factory looks. I think they look good.

Expensive, but they look like a quality part because they are, you wont find a clamp that holds better and it wont ever come loose.

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/61584587

[Stocker]

^^ Those are nice!

[travisch]

If factory look doesn't matter I've been using the gates shrink to fit clamps on my camaro. They work great and leave a nice clean finished look.

On my 71 K10 I just use regular worm drive clamps from NAPA. If I'm out somewhere remote and needed to do something that involved hose removal then the Gates clamps are no good as they need to be cut off - single use only.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Wanted T-bolt type clamps, but I stopped at the 5/8” heater hose, none of them appear to fit. T-bolt clamps have a very limited diameter range, and they're too wide for some applications:

So I think I’m pulling the trigger on these:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/de...09066?fromRR=Y for:
Two for ¾” thermostat bypass hose
Two for ¾” power steering reservoir hose
Two for ¾” heater hose
Four for 5/8” heater hose

For radiator hose (4):
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48705214

[Kudzupatch]

Originally Posted by Stocker

I've had worm gear clamps loosen up sometimes and need a little re-tightening. No such problem with single-wire or better yet, double-wire clamps like these. They may not look right but they always hold snug with no leaks.

Totally agree. I have gone back to using the factory spring clamps. They can not unscrew themselves and cause you lose all the coolant while driving down the road.

[Stocker]

^^ I like the looks of that one! Don't think I have seen them before, do you know what they came on or where they can be purchased?

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by Kudzupatch

Totally agree. I have gone back to using the factory spring clamps. They can not unscrew themselves and cause you lose all the coolant while driving down the road.

[IMG]<snip>[/IMG]

got a little story for ya'll about these..

bone stock '95 impala ss on my way to a civil service exam, very first one btw..

gal told me to turn the wrong direction off the freeway, yah before google maps were in your pocket had to ask for directions..

so when I'm all the way in santa monica on the beach I realize I've gone way too far so I look for an opening to U it..

so just as I crank the wheel and stand on it, BOOM! coolant blasts my windshield, temp gauge winding up, lights on....

so now on the beach side, I drop into the first parking lot.. attendant chasing me and gives up cuz I'm coasting into a spot..

up goes the hood, fearing the worst..... nah, just a spring tension clamp that BLEW off

with absolutely nothing on me, passerby tells me there's a bike rental joint up the beach half mile or so..

off I go! borrowed some pliers, grabbed a mcdonalds cup out of the trash and found the slowest public sink faucet on the planet..

so after about 20 relays between the sink and parking lot, got it filled and clamp replaced..

off I went, stopped at rental joint to return pliers with a $ tip.. and sped away to my test..

well, I was late but looking at my hands and clothes, they bought the story and let me in..

19 years later nearing my second retirement as result of that test..

moral of the story, that spring tension alone may not hold as well as it may need to..

[Killer Bee]

sorry, had to get that off my chest, now back on topic..

I just replaced all the rubber fuel lines and tank sender under one of the burbs..

looking for the older style worm clamps with the smooth inner wrap [silicone hose app I believe]

found these at O'Reilly's



they're smooth around the hose so no chafing and have a pinch bolt for positive tension..

we use a lot of t-bolt style v band clamps on DPFs and related components so I thought I'd give them a try..

they fit well, tension range was plenty for the sizes I found paired up to the hose I needed..

these are labeled for fuel injection so should be rated to ~150psi, far more than adequate tension for my needs..

no experience with the tower style, only removed frozen and busted ones..

seems that some styles are fast on the assembly line but not necessarily the best fasteners..

unless it's a concours rebuild, I wouldn't get stuck on OE clamps that are weak and not user friendly..

good luck!