What’s it worth?

[tucktuck]

So I’ve wanted a 67-68 C-10 for a long as I can remember (seriously) to build and tinker with myself. Guess it’s one of those bucket list things..anyways I’m getting closer to pulling the trigger on one and would like a clean “driver” until the tear down process starts. I’ll be stockpiling parts and such until I have the majority of what I’ll need before starting. Looking at getting the best “starter” truck I can for this project of mine. I fully intend for this to be one that my kids keep handing down long after I’m gone, so no plans of ever selling it..

Found this one strolling through CL and really, really want it...but I don’t want to over pay. That said, these things aren’t getting any cheaper. This one is at a dealer and they are asking around the $17k mark for it.

Haven’t looked at it yet but supposing it has minimal rust (if any) then what do you guys think it’s worth?

Details I do know...

Small block Chevy
3 spd trans
Lowered (not enough)
Showing 61k on the odo
Super clean and straight from the pics.


Plans for whatever I find will be:

Put correct grill back on it
LS/4l60 swap (rebuilt and cammed)
Static drop, probably 4/6
Vintage A/C
Shaved firewall
Wilwood disc brakes on all 4 corners
Convert interior to grey
Paint exterior dark charcoal grey

Anyway, here’s some pics. Tell me if I should jump on it or if it’s not worth the coin.

Thanks guys.

[mikeshome]

Buy it and leave it alone.I would never pay that much as a starter truck to do all the things you want to change.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by mikeshome

Buy it and leave it alone.I would never pay that much as a starter truck to do all the things you want to change.

I'll second that leave it alone except A/C and drive it

[rjs53]

I wouldn't pay more than 10 or 12k for it. Nothing special and its all white. White hides alot.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by mikeshome

Buy it and leave it alone.I would never pay that much as a starter truck to do all the things you want to change.

I wish it was that simple, but I can’t ever leave anything alone...

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by rjs53

I wouldn't pay more than 10 or 12k for it. Nothing special and its all white. White hides alot.

Problem with that is I have seen some pretty rusty/distastefully modded/crap going in the 10-12 price range. As stated I want a clean driver until I get ready to dig into it. Probably be at least a couple years before I have the time mainly.

One things for sure..they aren’t getting any cheaper.

[rsavage]

Wrong engine or at least the wrong accessory set up with alternator on passenger side (means harness was hacked/spliced, wrong seat, radio area cut, wrong steering wheel, aftermarket tailgate, wrong grille, 3 spd trans? I can't see a clutch pedal and it's an auto trans column ( maybe a TH350 was installed? ) I guess if it is a real shortbed and not a shortened long bed, and it was solid, then it might be worth within a few thousand of what they are asking - just my opinion. It's your money.

[External]

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...873161932.html

Just spend a little more.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by rsavage

Wrong engine or at least the wrong accessory set up with alternator on passenger side (means harness was hacked/spliced, wrong seat, radio area cut, wrong steering wheel, aftermarket tailgate, wrong grille, 3 spd trans? I can't see a clutch pedal and it's an auto trans column ( maybe a TH350 was installed? ) I guess if it is a real shortbed and not a shortened long bed, and it was solid, then it might be worth within a few thousand of what they are asking - just my opinion. It's your money.

Thanks for the info...

I know a lot of it isn’t period correct, but I’m gonna LS swap it eventually anyways.

So if it is indeed solid AND an original short bed...what would you offer?

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by External

https://houston.craigslist.org/cto/d...873161932.html

Just spend a little more.

Famous last words...next thing you know your in the $50k range lol. Nice truck, I just want to do the work to it. That’s the “fun” part right??

[jocko]

i thought you wanted a 67-68?
i hate to say it, but since you asked - do not think that is a $17K truck. As mentioned by others, if you plan to make all those mods, you're throwing money away to pay for someone else's idea of finished. If you were going to leave it as is -then it's a $10k truck at best.

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by jocko

i thought you wanted a 67-68?
i hate to say it, but since you asked - do not think that is a $17K truck. As mentioned by others, if you plan to make all those mods, you're throwing money away to pay for someone else's idea of finished. If you were going to leave it as is -then it's a $10k truck at best.

Yeah. I agree that it’s a nice “done” truck, just not my style in the end. Problem is I can’t find anything that’s close to this nice in the $10k range... they all need half the body patched up or replaced. These are getting ridiculous in price.

Even in CA, I can't see that price. If you really want to work on a truck then it seems to me you should be able to find something in the $6K-$8K range--minimal rust except in "usual" places and, since you don't care about the engine or keeping it stock (given you want to do a swap), then you have a world of options--my only advice would be to find a driver so you can at least do that while you plan the build---my 2 cents. BTW, and you may not care about this, but if you want a true SWB then do your due diligence on the truck. later. m

[rsavage]

Originally Posted by tucktuck

Thanks for the info...

I know a lot of it isn’t period correct, but I’m gonna LS swap it eventually anyways.

So if it is indeed solid AND an original short bed...what would you offer?

If the bodywork and paint were excellent (meaning you would be happy with it without a repaint) and it's a true short bed that is solid, I would start at $11,000 and move up a couple of thousand (or as much as you are comfortable with) if necessary. As with any vehicle, especially one that is a half century old, take your time and crawl all over it. Check above the visors near the windshield frame for any repairs Also the rain gutters. Is the floor of the box all beat up and dented? If so, that is a major deduction in my mind. What kind of shape are the floors and floor braces in? Check the SPID if it is in the truck to make sure it wasn't a long bed. Decode the VIN. Was it originally a V8 or 6 cylinder truck? Look for welds on the frame behind the cab to determine if it was shortened and look for any rusted out areas. Check the engine pad stamp and the block casting number to see what is actually in it. I know you are going to change it out, but if it's a 350 or 327 you can actually get a few hundred bucks back when you pull it. A 307 or a 305 are boat anchors. If it is a dealer's vehicle, he should have a lift. Good luck with your quest. From the few photos it looks fairly good, but your eyeballs on it during a good inspection will you if it is.

[special-K]

If you're going to pay too much for a truck why don't you buy what you've always wanted, a '67? BTW, this truck is not a 3spd, it's an automatic. You've been wanting one so long why not take a little longer to find what you've been waiting for? It sounds like the money is burning a hole in your pocket. What we have here is where that nightmare money pit comes from. So anxious for a truck you are ready to pay big money for 'close to' what you've always wanted and are relying on others looking at a few pictures to make your decision. Slow down and keep looking until you find what you want and you won't need to ask.

[Grumpy old man]

" Found this one strolling through CL and really, really want it...but I don’t want to over pay. That said, these things aren’t getting any cheaper. This one is at a dealer and they are asking around the $17k mark for it."

It's at a dealership why would you think your going to get any type of a "deal" on it ? if you don't pay the asking price 10 other guys will .

[CG]

If you don't mind paying 17K and you are going to modify the heck out of it from there why not start with an actual 67/68 that's in OK shape? Something in the 5K range? Then do all your mods, you will know 100% what's going on with the truck since you built it.

BTW not sure by your statement ... Put the correct grill in it ... Does that mean you are fine with the 71/72 style grill even though you want the 67/68? Because if you like the 67/68 you cant just bolt a grill on it and be done. You have to change the entire front nose and the core support.

Id keep looking and doing a little more research. BTW, that spend a little more Craigslist ad ... absolutely no way I would pay that kind of money for a truck that wasn't darn close to perfect. That thing while cool, has a mish mash look interior wise.

MY .02 cents =)

[cornerstone]

Not worth the coin.... I see a 9k truck here. Try to be patient (I know it's hard) and you will be glad. Many better options out there cheaper. Just have the cash in hand and wait for Jocko to do his magic. Think nationwide too, since you have that much to spend you could even have one shipped to you and still save a bunch o' chili. Good luck and happy hunting.
-Brian

[tucktuck]

Originally Posted by special-K

If you're going to pay too much for a truck why don't you buy what you've always wanted, a '67? BTW, this truck is not a 3spd, it's an automatic. You've been wanting one so long why not take a little longer to find what you've been waiting for? It sounds like the money is burning a hole in your pocket. What we have here is where that nightmare money pit comes from. So anxious for a truck you are ready to pay big money for 'close to' what you've always wanted and are relying on others looking at a few pictures to make your decision. Slow down and keep looking until you find what you want and you won't need to ask.

Thanks for all the details and reply’s guys. Been a long time lurker here and just getting ready to find “the one”

I’m not in any hurry, and the money isn’t burning any holes...lol. I like my bank accounts where they are actually. My main original question I guess is would it be worth it if it truly was 1) a factory short bed, as I don’t want a cut down. Sure their cool and all, but I defiantly want a factory SB. 2.) IF it was rust free and super clean like it appears to be, would it be worth buying to not have to deal with cutting panels and patchwork...then again I’d already have to relocate the tank and patch that hole at least...

Yes I would prefer a true 67-68 with the correct front end. Knew I’d have to change the grill and fenders, hood as well correct?

Again. Thanks for all the input as I’ll pass on this one and keep on searching.

[terry b]

If you're going to cut it up yourself why do you care if it's a cut long bed?

[jocko]

Originally Posted by tucktuck

Yes I would prefer a true 67-68 with the correct front end. Knew I’d have to change the grill and fenders, hood as well correct?

Grill, fenders, hood, core support, etc etc. If you want a 67-68, it's best to just narrow the search to them. If you do all the sheet metal swapping, you may end up with a great looking 69-72 that looks like a 67-68 that about 75% of any future potential buyer population won't touch for that very reason. I know, I know - you're gonna keep it forever, so it won't matter If I had a nickel for every time I've said that myself...

[Already Gone]

You have been given a lot of great advice on here and I'll just add that dealing with a dealer they are there to make money and usually they think they know lots about our trucks but they do not as attested to by claiming things like " original rally wheels ' and original Cheyenne Super when we can tell the truck is not an original Super by looking at the spid cause the dealer is going by the Cheyenne Super call-outs someone stuck on the fenders and other claims like that. It looks like you live in Central Texas and that area is what i call one of the "Truck Rich " States with the ohers being California and the "Truck Rich Tri-States " of Pacific Northwest which are Washington, Oregon and Idaho.. As has been said if you wart a 67-68 buy an unmolested original 67-68 and start with it for your build. They are out there you just gotta look.. Check the " Post your Craigslist Finds " thread on here daily and EBay is another good source. Another tip is if you find a truck and its far away you can probably find someone on the board that would be willing to go check it out for you.

[special-K]

Ok, all that said. No, that truck isn't worth that even if it was a real shortbed. Keeping in vague lines not knowing all that much about the truck I'd say maybe in the 10k range (by today's crazy market. That's $8-12k, which is at least $5k less and that's a lot of money to keep in your account. The offering of another truck that's "only a little more" cracks me up. When did $7,000 dollars become a little bit of money? You can buy a half decent truck STILL for $7k. You could buy three and have $4k left over for $25k. AND... I think the $17k is a better deal than the $25k for a truck that will get changed. I see that motor being sold in a pieced together LMC special on the $25k one.

[54blackhornet]

When you go to a doctor because you have a health issue, do you argue about his diagnosis ? Just saying !

[cashforclunkers]

I didn't see anyone mention a cut dash for din radio or wrong seat. Both of those creature comfort mods will 'devalue' a truck and are very difficult/costly to fix.