'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...

[watahyahknow]

i will read the article
i allso like to see if youre exaust works and how it will sound , the info i had has been quite a few years old from the days that grinding out ports on stock heads . high rize manifolds , yellow accel coils unburned gasses out the exaust and lumpy idle where the norm in dragracing , these things change over the years as more test data comes in

[xxcov3rxx]

WOW. Your attention to detail is impeccable. This thing is a work of art and I have enjoyed all 40 something pages of watching you take metal and blend it in. I just entered the fab world and have a lot to learn, but would love to watch how you blend sheet metal into the body. That is a skill that I would like to master. Sure would help on the finishing side!


Enough of me rambling! subscribes!!

[69gmcc10]

Seriously FF! Ya had to tell us this little nugget of info about exhaust tuning, FML!!! Now, I have to start doing research and find out everything I can about tuning exhaust, just when I thought I was gonna have a productive day at work. My boss is gonna hate you.

Great work and thanks for the knowledge!

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

i will read the article
i allso like to see if youre exaust works and how it will sound , the info i had has been quite a few years old from the days that grinding out ports on stock heads . high rize manifolds , yellow accel coils unburned gasses out the exaust and lumpy idle where the norm in dragracing , these things change over the years as more test data comes in

Those "tricks" resulted in some fast cars too. So they are hard to doubt. That is until the real mechanism behind the magic is weeded out though comprehensive testing. Thanks to those who figure it all out for the rest of us

Originally Posted by xxcov3rxx

WOW. Your attention to detail is impeccable. This thing is a work of art and I have enjoyed all 40 something pages of watching you take metal and blend it in. I just entered the fab world and have a lot to learn, but would love to watch how you blend sheet metal into the body. That is a skill that I would like to master. Sure would help on the finishing side!
Enough of me rambling! subscribes!!

Thanks man. I'll give a general sequence for dressing/blending:

1. Grind with 4.5" grinding disc angle grinder until just above surface level
2. Blend down to surface level with a 60grit flap disc (must hit the weld from both sides)
3. Flatten with a file (might look flat after previous step but may still have topography)
4. Dress with 60-100 grit on a DA

Originally Posted by 69gmcc10

Seriously FF! Ya had to tell us this little nugget of info about exhaust tuning, FML!!! Now, I have to start doing research and find out everything I can about tuning exhaust, just when I thought I was gonna have a productive day at work. My boss is gonna hate you.

Great work and thanks for the knowledge!

Just tell him how much faster you'll get to work with a properly tuned exhaust

You sound like me; When I get the bug for something I exhaust all resources until I'm satisfied.

[NONHOG]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

You sound like me; When I get the bug for something I exhaust all resources until I'm satisfied.

Right there is the difference between a "car guy" and someone who is into cars.
All about being satisfied. Take exhaust choices. The reality is the best mufflers vs. really good muffler are just a few HP. I doubt anyone
can feel 3 HP. But a car guy is going to get the best because it pleases him (or her).
and every little bit helps < car guy mentality

[mcbassin]

Blend down to surface level with a 60grit flap disc (must hit the weld from both sides)

What kind of flapper disc do you use? I have tried them in the past and never liked them. Maybe I didn't buy the right kind/brand? 3M? Norton? other?

[76C10Stepside]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Thanks man. I'll give a general sequence for dressing/blending:

1. Grind with 4.5" grinding disc angle grinder until just above surface level
2. Blend down to surface level with a 60grit flap disc (must hit the weld from both sides)
3. Flatten with a file (might look flat after previous step but may still have topography)
4. Dress with 60-100 grit on a DA

...the catch being that you must hit the weld and ONLY the weld repeatedly. No mean task for someone whose eyes are failing and hands are getting shaky!
Thanks for the DEETS, though! I'll try to follow these steps next time around!

[ERASER5]

Just WOW! The fine detail is amazing. Like everyone else, i can hardly wait to see this finished, BUT the down side is, fewer updates on this car. I will really miss that. Good thing there are at least 2 more projects waiting.

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

...the catch being that you must hit the weld and ONLY the weld repeatedly. No mean task for someone whose eyes are failing and hands are getting shaky!
Thanks for the DEETS, though! I'll try to follow these steps next time around!

Keep the grinder moving, run the abrasive across the seam laterally, and hit the weld from both sides. Sure would be nice to find an angle grinder that can reverse direction.

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Just WOW! The fine detail is amazing. Like everyone else, i can hardly wait to see this finished, BUT the down side is, fewer updates on this car. I will really miss that. Good thing there are at least 2 more projects waiting.

The updates at that point will consist of legendary tales of street domination and auto-x/drifting vids

And no worries on continued projects.
Here's the current fleet:

• 1966 Sunbeam Minx
• 1969 Tahoe
• 1964 Chevy 1/2ton Long/Fleet
• 1961 Chevy Short/Step
• 1968 FJ40 (Wife's)

...and we recently added ANOTHER one to the fleet: A 1968 VW Squareback for my 13yo son-
Rescue Day:








All these boxes of parts and a full interior came with:


"There's yer problem right there..."

[Frizzle Fry]

I'm not really picky about brand. Dewalts seem to last longer, but I'm not above a few from HF every now and then.

[67cheby]

luv me a little Square back action....I AM IN !

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 67cheby

luv me a little Square back action....I AM IN !

Guess I'll have to start a thread once we really get rollin on it. We will be taking the opposite approach of the Driftbeam: Keep It Simple! That way it has a chance of being ready to drive when he is

[OLDIRON69]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Guess I'll have to start a thread once we really get rollin on it. We will be taking the opposite approach of the Driftbeam: Keep It Simple! That way it has a chance of being ready to drive when he is

Famous last words!

[65Pickup]

Nice Father/Son project, always liked the type 3's, the look on his face says it all.
...and a little inspiration.

[67cheby]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Guess I'll have to start a thread once we really get rollin on it. We will be taking the opposite approach of the Driftbeam: Keep It Simple! That way it has a chance of being ready to drive when he is

LOL...i understand, my son is 10 thinking about buying a Square body C10 to start on for him as soon as mine is done !

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by OLDIRON69

Famous last words!

I know... But I have demonstrated the ability to keep it simple before (once), with my 64.

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

Nice Father/Son project, always liked the type 3's, the look on his face says it all.
...and a little inspiration.

Oh yeah! It's getting dropped and two tone fo sho! Stock wheels/caps until if/when he decides to spend his money on wheels.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Lucky kid you've got there. Congrats on adding to the herd
Posted via Mobile Device

He bought it with his money

Originally Posted by 67cheby

LOL...i understand, my son is 10 thinking about buying a Square body C10 to start on for him as soon as mine is done !

Do it! My 8yo already says he wants the 61 stepside/vettruck

[mcbassin]

Lucky kid you've got there. Congrats on adding to the herd
Posted via Mobile Device

[watahyahknow]

maibe put these on there

it looks like they done a lot of work to the car allready , just hope its still complete , buing the small parts can add up in a hurry

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

By laterally, do you mean alternate passes from both sides at a 45-degree angle?

Here's what I mean. The outside edges of the seam are better blended down to the surface level be hitting them like this:

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

I recently bought a powder coating system and found a used stove for free. Looking forward to powder coating everything in sight!

I recently learned a few extra steps for achieving quality powdercoating:

1. Even clean metal should be blasted to give it some "tooth"
2. Hot Pre-Bake the 450-500 degrees
3. Wipe down with Isopropal Alcohol (after cooling)
4. Use a powdercoating primer
5. Powdercoat

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

That's a solid-looking 68 Squareback you have there! I had a 67 Beetle that I loved. My neighbor across the street had a beautiful Notchback that I coveted. The Fastbacks were cool too.

My first car was a 67 Bug. I rolled it when I was 15 I love the notchbacks. In fact I have a saved search for them on CL and eBay The SB is very solid. The body is ready for sanding and paint; it's that straight. The only rust on the whole car is under the battery. Easy fix.

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

This 69 Corvair Monza...

I'm familiar with them. Great find! Very cool

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Always liked the square backs. Great project for you two.
My six year old daughter asked me to buy her a car yesterday. The pace I go she might get a drivable car by the time she gets out of college.

This is gonna depend on his level of motivation. I told him I will only work on it when he does. So far so good.

Originally Posted by 65Pickup

The VW got us all distracted, thanks for the exhaust lesson. Great article, lots to take in. I put Borlas on my truck, now I have to measure to see what my collector/muffler combo is. Who would think a muffler six feet from the collector would be considered an extension of the collector. Cheers

It's pretty eye opening for sure. I've been aware of the theory for years now, but this is the first opportunity I've had to implement it. We'll see how it goes. I can't think of a downside other that weight and fab time.

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

maibe put these on there...
it looks like they done a lot of work to the car allready , just hope its still complete , buing the small parts can add up in a hurry

Fuchs are always a winner. Porsche now offers them in 19" The car is complete. Was just partially disassembled for paint. Your right, small parts add up fast!

[76C10Stepside]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

Here's what I mean. The outside edges of the seam are better blended down to the surface level be hitting them like this:

I recently learned a few extra steps for achieving quality powdercoating:

1. Even clean metal should be blasted to give it some "tooth"
2. Hot Pre-Bake the 450-500 degrees
3. Wipe down with Isopropal Alcohol (after cooling)
4. Use a powdercoating primer
5. Powdercoat

WOW! Pictures with the circles and arrows and everything! :-)
That's how I grind my welds, but my welds are very messy. Just have a wirefeed welder.

Bake the part before powdercoating?
I read that a convection oven is best. Do you use a convection oven?
Is powdercoating primer necessary when the metal is sufficiently rough?
Also read that some powdercoating paints are more porous than others. I got the MATTE BLACK from Harbor Freight. It was the only black they had. Not sure how good it is, but if it lasts 4-5 times as long as paint I'll be happy!

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

Bake the part before powdercoating?
I read that a convection oven is best. Do you use a convection oven?
Is powdercoating primer necessary when the metal is sufficiently rough?
Also read that some powdercoating paints are more porous than others. I got the MATTE BLACK from Harbor Freight. It was the only black they had. Not sure how good it is, but if it lasts 4-5 times as long as paint I'll be happy!

i've powdercoated directly over rusty metal and it sticks. i know it won't last though(it's on my cart in my oven, and also when i powder coated the lug nuts the hub i used was rusted and raw and now looks nice and glossy).

if you're looking for other places to pick up powder from, i like colombia coatings, pendry powder coating, and i'm yet to order from rosey's powder coating.

[watahyahknow]

he means that when you want to hit the top of the circle going clockwize intoo the groove when you want to get extra penetration intoo the steel on the left side and the hit with the bottom of the circle going clockwize for the left side

if i get the gas for my welder im going to try it , nathan from porterbuild showed it to me this way too but i gues it takes practice to run realy nice welds the way he does them

[Frizzle Fry]

Originally Posted by 76C10Stepside

WOW! Pictures with the circles and arrows and everything! :-)
That's how I grind my welds, but my welds are very messy. Just have a wirefeed welder.

Bake the part before powdercoating?
I read that a convection oven is best. Do you use a convection oven?
Is powdercoating primer necessary when the metal is sufficiently rough?
Also read that some powdercoating paints are more porous than others. I got the MATTE BLACK from Harbor Freight. It was the only black they had. Not sure how good it is, but if it lasts 4-5 times as long as paint I'll be happy!

I'm using a mig too. That powdercoating process was described to me by the shop I went to for some of my larger parts. I can tell you the finish is much more durable than what I did myself with just powder over clean metal.

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

he means that when you want to hit the top of the circle going clockwize intoo the groove when you want to get extra penetration intoo the steel on the left side and the hit with the bottom of the circle going clockwize for the left side

if i get the gas for my welder im going to try it , nathan from porterbuild showed it to me this way too but i gues it takes practice to run realy nice welds the way he does them

Those drawings show how to blend welds smooth with a flap disc.

[Jvsapp]

Originally Posted by Frizzle Fry

That powdercoating process was described to me by the shop I went to for some of my larger parts. I can tell you the finish is much more durable than what I did myself with just powder over clean metal.

being that i do powdercoating, let me add to this...
the pre-baking the parts allows the metal to out gas. any impurities in the metal will move to the surface when the metal is heated. ESPECIALLY with aluminum. i find somewhere around 350-400 degrees for 15-20 min is normally sufficient. if there is any oil residue it will bake off. as for cleaning with alcohol after that's an extra step to ensure cleanliness. any bit of oil, even from your hands will affect the finished product. the primer step adds one more layer of protection. they sell good out gas killer primer powders out there. if you want your powder to go on smooth that's the best way to do it. also powder can be treated like paint afterwards. you can cut and buff it like you would a automotive finish. it all depends on how thick you lay it too.

if your part is steel and you take it straight from the blaster, blow it off and right into the oven, most times you can get away with just using powder directly on it. aluminum if it's sat around for a while outside in the elements i would ALWAYS pre-bake.

i've had some jobs that were nightmares. stripping powder off a part that out gassed is a PITA. like they say do it once do it right.

if you wanna see some of what i've done check out my link in the sig.

[watahyahknow]