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Old 11-24-2004, 05:25 PM   #26
cableguy0
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the pic 72 custom camper posted looks like my tank that they cut the gaping hole in the bedside for. im guessing it was a dealer option because its not listen on the option seat
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Old 11-24-2004, 07:50 PM   #27
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Here are some pics from my truck. It sounds like you are considering something different, but I figured it would not be a bad idea to make the thread as comprehensive as possible, especially for future searches.
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Old 11-25-2004, 12:28 AM   #28
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My brothers 72 has the filler necks in the well like that,the only thing is the amount of crap that accumulates on the cap.Of course he's not one to take the highway when a different option presents itself
He's always scraping the junk off with a screwdriver before he opens the cap.

Like I said,if you're not into yard farming all the time it won't matter prolly
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Old 11-25-2004, 01:33 AM   #29
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K, I finally got pics. As you can see, this would be a super easy install if you can find the parts. I see these from time to time in the local yards. Will start grabbin some I think. Could be used for the blazer tank conversion I think.
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Old 11-26-2004, 12:19 AM   #30
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Dealer installed used the silver doors or filled through the wheel well. Factory installed came up through the box with the blazer shroud around the hose and filler neck. Factory units were only installed on the driver's side.

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Old 11-27-2004, 02:09 AM   #31
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My nephew gave me an idea..... put the filler neck inside the rear side marker hole. So with a little designing and some modification I put my filler cap behind the left rear side marker. I made a hinged plate and mounted the whole marker on so it would hinge forward to access the filler cap. It took a little trial and error but I finally got it to where it would work.
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Old 11-27-2004, 02:13 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modifiedGMC
My nephew gave me an idea..... put the filler neck inside the rear side marker hole. So with a little designing and some modification I put my filler cap behind the left rear side marker. I made a hinged plate and mounted the whole marker on so it would hinge forward to access the filler cap. It took a little trial and error but I finally got it to where it would work.
Welcome from Northern California!!! and here is proof that great minds think alike. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=side+marker There is a better thread on this somewhere, I seem to have lost it.
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Old 11-28-2004, 09:50 AM   #33
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Hook'em, you're not going to believe this, but I have a low-tech solution for keeping the aux tank filler neck & cap reasonably clean during road travel. You know the can coolers that come in half-inch foam? Duct tape the bottom hole shut from both sides, and then simply slip it over the cap. As long as you have a stretched friction fit, it stays put. Pull it off to refill the tank and you'll find little to no dirt. The dirt won't even work its way up much from the bottom. If loose to start, just add a lining to size it.

For bling bling set-up, tie-wrap a cut and slit can cooler to the neck just below the filler cap. Then you'll have a slip-fit seal from the bottom. Just make sure you still have the friction fit with the cap.:p

In dutiful exchange for this tidbit, please tell me who made those tanks and if they're still available. I also missed whether those wheelwell-exiting filler necks were original or mods. Since those tanks don't fill thru the body, will they work with a 67-72 Suburban?

And does anyone know whether the saddle tanks using bodyside fillers can work with a Sub given minor fuel spout routing mods? Would the spout fit behind the Sub's driver's side pass window assy when rolled down? Looks like the factory installed blazer style necks would interfere with the window coming down, but maybe the lower mounted fuel door spouts would work.
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Old 11-28-2004, 11:24 AM   #34
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4X4Poet,

I've seen a couple of suburbans with what looks to be a factory installed auxiliary fuel tank on the driver's side that filled through a filler neck similar to the one for the main gas tank. I didn't get to see if it was listed on the glove box option sheet though. Another member from California reported seeing dual auxiliary tanks with the same setup in a salvage yard. Not sure where the filler neck came out on the passenger side on that one, it was gone before he could get pictures.

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Old 11-28-2004, 04:02 PM   #35
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Thanks Bob. I appreciate all the input and pics. I'm planning a Christmas road trip to Sacramento in my K10, and I only have a 21 gal MTS poly tank, so I'm very interested in this thread.

I question the sighting of a pass side Burb tank with bodyside filler since that would be a tight fit with the third door there. Not impossible, just not probable. Like you said, you only had it on account. In any case, I hope to source, or have built, some wheelwell filler saddle tanks like Hook'em posted.
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Old 11-28-2004, 04:15 PM   #36
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Thanks for the good idea re: filler neck in wheel well. I have no idea where to get saddle tanks like those; they are not on the option sheet but look as though they have been there a long time. Currently, I don't uses either one. One has some rust inside and the cab tank is plenty big for my traveling. I just like the look of them and they make great conversation. Some day I may redo and start using them, so I am going to keep them right where they are.
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Old 11-29-2004, 11:40 PM   #37
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I bought a set of saddle tanks from a board member today, and was wondering the best was to clean them as they are really dirty and who knows what on the inside, plus info on installing a sending unit in them (if possible, which everything usually is). any help would be great..
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Old 11-30-2004, 12:41 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2low72
I bought a set of saddle tanks from a board member today, and was wondering the best was to clean them as they are really dirty and who knows what on the inside, plus info on installing a sending unit in them (if possible, which everything usually is). any help would be great..
The best thing for the inside is go to the Eastwood web sight and order the gas tank cleaner and sealer kit. To clean the inside of the tank take out the sending unit and get about 2 feet of metal chain and drop it in the tank and shake it around. This cleans most off the rust and scale out. Then use the sealer from Eastwood...


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Old 11-30-2004, 01:19 AM   #39
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Is there a way to install a sending unit if one is not previously installed?
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Old 11-30-2004, 02:57 AM   #40
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There is a way to install a sending unit in most any tank....In the event there is not the required opening that fits the sending units; a trim ring kit is available....Recalls this consists of a gasket; a ring about 3 inches in diameter with threaded holes that fit the sending unit. There are also other holes that bolt the ring to the tank itself.....Will try to locate this source for these adapter rings thru a local source and post.... I recall I used sending units from J.C. Whitney, wired in a 3 position switch to the sending units and the stock fuel guage; thus giving reading for the main and each of the two underbed auxillary tanks.
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Old 11-30-2004, 03:06 AM   #41
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I will take pics of my fuel doors that I put on from a 78 chevy truck, as soon as I get my camera working with my computer agian, I had those ugly aluminum doors as well, and and hated them too
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Old 11-30-2004, 05:09 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 CustomCamper
The best thing for the inside is go to the Eastwood web sight and order the gas tank cleaner and sealer kit. To clean the inside of the tank take out the sending unit and get about 2 feet of metal chain and drop it in the tank and shake it around. This cleans most off the rust and scale out. Then use the sealer from Eastwood...


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My saddle tank was baffled. The chain will get hung up. took mine to a radiator shop. They cut it open and tanked it, welded it closed and then sealed/coated it. It was a bit steep at $105. I have a good tank now though.
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:12 AM   #43
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I have a saddle tank that needs cleaning, also. It doesn't have a sending unit, so the only opening is the filler neck (can't see much inside). I'm concerned about the gas tank sealer plugging up the gas pickup (justified or not--I can't see it anyway), so I've thought about just treating it with autobody metal prep. Any thoughts on using autobody metal prep only?
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Old 12-01-2004, 02:32 AM   #44
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Go to www.por-15.com they have a product called marine clean that works pretty good. They also have a product called US Standard that is supposed to be a good tank sealer. I doubt you would have a problem with it clogging your pick-up if you follow their instructions. In regards to the sender. I could not find a replacement for mine so I put in a (I think) VDO adjustable sending unit. I had to re-drill the mounting holes but otherwise it was a perfect fit. Came with everthing I needed for the indstall also.
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Old 12-01-2004, 08:26 AM   #45
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I bought a fuel gauge and float from JC Whitney a few years ago for less than $50. I think it was more like $25. After I had a shop boil out and seal my tank I installed the float/sender setup and mounted the gauge knee-knocker style under my dash.

The fuel is picked up out of a tube that comes out of the top of the tank. The bottom of the tube doesn't quite reach the bottom. I attempted to make the JC Whitney float work out of the fuel tube's hole but there wasn't enough room so I just made another hole.

The pick-up tube and tank level sensor are in two different holes.
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Old 12-01-2004, 09:48 AM   #46
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fuel gauge/float sender

checked J.C. Whitney web site. They have fuel gauge and float sender for $22.95 !! requires a 2 1/8 hole to mount the float.....Jim
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Old 12-02-2004, 07:03 PM   #47
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my 72 has the factory install dual saddle tanks.drivers side filler is on the side of the bed panel with the gas cap and rubber grommet.The passenger side filler is located thru the rear fender well between the front of the rear tire and the bed side.The filler tube extends out of the back end of the saddle tank and angles upward . It is hardly visible.
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